“Maybe we should go someplace else,” I whispered to my guest as we looked over the menu at Dalloyau in the Entertainment Building in Hong Kong’s Central business and shopping district. The entrance – through a Fancl shopfront, and past a Fancl skincare stand on the left, and a display case showing Dalloyau macarons and pastries on the right – did not inspire confidence. Once we got past that, though, the small dining room was cosy, comfortable and attractively decorated (although they should consider losing the bright screens that show a rotating display of the dishes). Fortunately, just as we were considering other options in the area, the waiter brought over a basket of warm bread – crisp, delicious baguettes and buttery, pillowy brioche. We shouldn’t have been surprised at how good they were, because Dalloyau is best known for its pastries and baked goods. The dishes can be ordered à la carte, but unless you’re having a single course, it’s more economical to have one of the three sets: HK$398 for appetiser or soup, plus main and dessert; HK$438 for appetiser, soup and main; and HK$498 for appetiser, soup, main and dessert. Many of the dishes have supplements, though, and it does add up. My guest and I ordered the largest menu. Our starters were the most disappointing part of the meal. The lobster salad religieuse was a savoury version of the traditional French choux-based pastry. But putting the salad in the cream puff meant there wasn’t much lobster, and the glaze was a little too sweet. Also too sweet was the Polmard beef tartare (with a supplement of HK$20). It had too much creamy dressing that covered the taste of the meat. The lobster bisque (HK$20 supplement), with a crown of light, delicate puff pastry, looked thin and watery, but the flavour was intense. Onion soup with cheese toast had a deep, rich flavour. My guest’s slow-cooked beef bourguignon (HK$30 supplement), served with creamy mashed potatoes, was delicious. The beef was wonderfully tender and succulent, with a nice layer of collagen running through the meat, which gave the sauce a rich, sticky consistency. My main of classic duck leg confit (HK$30 supplement) had crisp skin and moist meat, but there was too much of the intense orange sauce. For dessert, crepe suzette (HK$40 supplement) had a tender crepe and a nice, tangy sauce. The dairy-free apple dessert (HK$40 supplement) – had lots of textures and temperatures with its apple purée, apple sorbet, apple jelly and fresh apples. Although refreshing and light, it tasted a little too dietetic. Dalloyau, Shop C, Entertainment Building, 30 Queen’s Road Central, Central, tel: 3185 8392. About HK$590 per person without drinks or the service charge. While you’re in the area Nove in Central: outstanding dim sum and Chiu Chow food by Umberto Bombana at reasonable prices Louise in Hong Kong: modern French food at its best by Julien Royer of Odette at his new Central restaurant Modern and classic dishes hit the spot at Somm in Central, in Amber’s old bar area