We’ve been hearing lots of good things about Zest by Konishi, which is in the two-storey space that once housed modern French fine-dining restaurant ON Dining Kitchen & Lounge, in Hong Kong’s Central district. The French-Japanese restaurant by chef Mitsuru Konishi has, however, always been full when we have tried to book, so we have not been able to try it out – until recently. Diners can choose between a degustation menu for HK$1,480 plus 10 per cent, or ordering à la carte. As the price for a three-course meal would have been about the same, we ordered the tasting menu so we could try more dishes. At first glance, the tasting menu – listing nine courses – looks daunting. Three of them, however, are amuse bouches and one is a petit four, which means it’s really only five courses. This was enough for us – but if you’re a larger eater, you might be left wanting more. The food was excellent. Of the trio of appetisers, we loved the akagai (ark shell clam) with zucchini, cauliflower cream and filtered tomato, and the cuttlefish ball that was covered with kadaif pastry before being deep fried. The crunchy exterior of the cuttlefish ball contrasted with its bouncy interior. The carrot cigar was nicely crisp, but the taste was too subtle. The kawahagi (filefish) sashimi with the liver of the fish and yuzu vinegar jelly was fantastic. The fish had a fresh, light taste, the liver was creamy and rich, and the jelly was sweet-tart and refreshing. Next, we were served a perfectly clear wagyu beef consommé with sweet potato gnocchi, shimeji mushrooms and wonderfully tender pieces of beef and beef tendon. Our friendly waiter had been enthusiastic about the fish course before serving it, calling it his favourite. He poured a clam dashi around the kinmedai (alfonsino) with sea urchin sauce, carefully adding it until it reached the level of the fish without disturbing it, “because I love it so much”. The perfectly cooked fish was served, unexpectedly, on a thin slice of mochi. This gave it a slightly chewy texture, while fried enoki mushrooms added a subtle crunch. Challandais duck breast, beautifully medium-rare, was smooth and tender, with a delicately crisp skin. It came with a delicious kumquat purée, a dried kumquat slice, and fresh kumquat, and was gently flavoured with sansho pepper, which left our tongues tingling. The dessert course of plum and white peach presented the fruits in different textures and temperatures – the fresh fruit, a sorbet, purée and a meringue dusted with yomogi (mugwort). Zest by Konishi, 28/F and 29/F On Lan Street, Central, tel: 2715 0878. HK$1,480 without drinks or the service charge. Like cooking? For Asian recipes to make at home for friends and family, visit SCMP Cooking .