First impressions of Mono in Central: ultra-high-end, mostly European dishes are delightful

Chef Ricardo Chaneton, who has worked at Michelin star restaurants Mirazur and Petrus, has opened Mono, a small restaurant to highlight his skills

His complex and balanced dishes with French influences delight and challenge diners

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Interior of Mono in Central. Photo: Jonathan Wong

Published: 12:45pm, 11 Jan 2020Updated: 3:06pm, 11 Jan 2020

At Mono, Venezuelan chef Ricardo Chaneton – who, most famously, worked previously at Mirazur (which now has three Michelin stars and is #1 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list) in Menton, France, has found a space that doesn’t distract from his cuisine.

I loved his food at Petrus at the Island Shangri-La, but the old-fashioned dining room was entirely the opposite of the modern, complex food that he was serving. Mono’s space – a small dining room and a long, open kitchen where diners at the counter can watch Chaneton and his team prepare the food – is intimate and friendly.

The bright, vivid flavours of ocean crudo made the perfect palate-whetting starter. Scallops, carabinero prawns and Brittany oyster were served with a French-inspired vinegar-based ceviche marinade, with small blobs of shallot cream to balance the acidity.

The next course was a little heavier. Small squares of fromage de tete (head cheese) came with romanesco broccoli, cauliflower and a rich boudin noir (black pudding) sauce, while chicharrones (pork crackling) added a light crunch, and finger lime caviar gave a much needed tartness.

Nova Scotia lobster with vin jaune sauce and white truffles. Photo: Jonathan Wong

My guest and were recognised when we arrived, so our next course was upgraded with the addition of Alba white truffle (which normally has a supplement of HK$420). Succulent poached Nova Scotia lobster was served with a light vin jaune sauce – a combination Chaneton explained was traditional in France, saying that the white truffle was a touch he added because he liked it – as did we. House-made sourdough bread came with a delicious organic olive oil.

We loved the fish dish, which Chaneton said was his favourite of the meal. It was a thick slice of a lake fish called humble chevalier (“humble knight”), cooked to rare and served on top of tender pieces of tendon that gave the sauce a lip smacking, sticky texture.