10 essential Chinese ingredients to keep in your kitchen, from rice to soy sauce to dried mushrooms
- If you’re planning a trip to 99 Ranch, Tang Frères or any other Chinese supermarket, these are the basic ingredients you should look to pick up
- Sometimes the choices can be overwhelming: soy sauce, for example, comes in many types, including thin, light, superior, premium, traditional and dark
We occasionally get emails from overseas readers asking for advice on what essentials to buy from Chinese supermarkets.
Some of these ingredients are obvious; others may be more unusual.
Rice
Dried noodles
Chinese people are big on noodles. Fresh noodles are delicious, but dried noodles keep for longer. A well-stocked Chinese supermarket will have many types of noodles: thick and thin, flat or round, and made of wheat, rice or other grains.
If you have a limited amount of pantry space, the most basic types to keep on hand are egg noodles and rice noodles – both thick and thin, if possible.
Soy sauce
In a Hong Kong supermarket, I found thin, light, superior, premium, traditional, dark and others, with prices ranging from HK$15 (US$1.90) for a 500ml bottle of “premium” to HK$209 for a 125ml bottle of “royal”. The price difference comes from whether they are mass-produced with a short (or non-existent) fermentation period and a large amount of wheat, or brewed from soybeans in small batches, with a long, slow fermentation.
Good soy sauce shouldn’t taste just of salt; it should have complex, fermented flavours. The price is often an indication of quality.
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If I had to limit myself to just one soy sauce, it would be light, although it might not be called that on the bottle. It has nothing to do with being low in salt or calories – light soy sauce is sometimes called “first extract” because that’s what it is: the first batch of liquid drawn from the fermented and aged ingredients.
Light soy sauce is thin and paler in colour, with a salty, balanced flavour. It’s the one I use most for cooking and dipping sauces.
Dark soy sauce has added sugar, making it darker, sweeter and thicker. It’s often combined with light soy sauce to make complexly flavoured slow-cooked dishes, such as braised or poached meats.
If you have the space in your pantry, buy both. Both light and dark soy sauces can go by different names, so check the ingredients label.
If you have the space in your pantry, buy three soy sauces. The most expensive types, such as Yuan’s (the producer of the expensive royal soy sauce mentioned above – made in Hong Kong and aged for up to two years), are used just for finishing a dish and is drizzled over food just before it’s served.
Fermented black beans
Dried black beans sold in bags are a lot more versatile (and more economical) than pre-made black bean sauce sold in jars.
Oyster sauce
A good oyster sauce should taste complexly oyster-y (it seems obvious but not all of them do) and shouldn’t be too thick (which indicates too much starch). And as with soy sauce, price often indicates quality.
Dried mushrooms
The most expensive are known as flower mushrooms because of the pattern on the cap. There’s no need to buy these unless you’re cooking them whole, where you can see the pattern.
Buy mushrooms with thick caps. They need to be soaked and fully hydrated before being cooked, preferably in cool/tepid water, which can take several hours.
Using hot water is faster, but much of the flavour will leech into the soaking liquid. The mushroom stems are often discarded, but can be simmered in water with other vegetables to make a meat-free broth.
Dried shrimp and scallops
The scallops, on the other hand, should be very hard, with an even tan colour. Both are soaked in water to hydrate them; as with dried mushrooms, use cool water, not hot.
While dried scallops keep at room temperature for a long time, you should store the dried shrimp in your fridge or freezer if it’s warm and humid in your pantry.
Chilli sauces
Chinese chilli sauces, even the ones made in Hunan and Sichuan, are very rarely just fiery – they’re balanced with other flavours. If you’re travelling to different regions of China, look out for locally produced chilli sauces.
XO sauce
Originally, it was made primarily of dried scallops (along with shallots, garlic, chillies and oil) and lesser amounts of other dried seafood. Now, though, you can find XO sauce made without any dried scallops and, of course, these are less expensive.
Sichuan pepper
This fragrant spice, also called prickly ash, is used most often in Sichuan cuisine, but its unique tongue-numbing quality can also be added to dishes from other parts of China, including soy sauce chicken and red-cooked meats. Sichuan pepper comes in red and green, but the latter is harder to find.
Sharp-eyed cooks might see some essential pantry items missing from this list – namely, rice wine and sesame oil. That’s because I buy rice wine from the Japanese supermarkets, and sesame oil from Korean ones – read about them in upcoming columns.