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With no tourists, fine-dining restaurants in Hong Kong must adapt to survive the coronavirus pandemic

  • Hong Kong’s dining industry, already affected by months of anti-government protests, is in crisis due to the coronavirus pandemic
  • Fine-dining restaurants have been hit hard and, with a recession coming, need to streamline and innovate to stay afloat, food and beverage consultants say

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Rech by Alain Ducasse at the InterContinental Hong Kong closed without warning on March 11, laying off all its staff. Photo: InterContinental Hong Kong

On my way home from work on March 11, I received a WhatsApp message from a friend in the hotel industry telling me she had heard that Rech by Alain Ducasse in the InterContinental Hong Kong was closing that evening, and that all the kitchen staff and servers would be laid off.

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It was shocking news. A big name like Ducasse and a Michelin star retained for three consecutive years was not enough to keep the restaurant going. I checked the hotel’s website and the fine dining contemporary French seafood restaurant had already been scrubbed off even before the evening dinner service was over.

It turns out the staff weren’t told until that afternoon that they would be let go that evening; it doesn’t seem like they had an inkling that such drastic action would be taken.

Many hotels and restaurants in Hong Kong are suffering after more than eight months of anti-government protests followed by the coronavirus pandemic, which has effectively stopped the tourism and hospitality industries in their tracks.
French chef Alain Ducasse’s fine-dining restaurant Rech by Alain Ducasse shut down without warning on March 11. Photo: Nora Tam
French chef Alain Ducasse’s fine-dining restaurant Rech by Alain Ducasse shut down without warning on March 11. Photo: Nora Tam
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Major events in the city have either been cancelled, including the Standard Chartered Marathon, Art Basel and the Hong Kong Arts Festival, or postponed, like the Hong Kong Sevens. These would have brought much needed money the local economy – to shops, restaurants and hotels that badly needed some respite from the protests.
A lot of hotel staff are taking unpaid leave while working part-time. But to shut down a restaurant so quickly shows hotel owners are losing patience or want to cut their losses amid uncertain times. With the closure of Rech by Alain Ducasse, I wondered how other fine-dining restaurants were adapting. I reached out to a few hotels and fine dining restaurant groups, but they either politely declined or didn’t reply.
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