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Wine drinking in China evolves, with online parties, events and influencers pushing consumption at home, amid Covid-19 lockdowns

  • Sales of wine have taken a hit from global closures of bars and restaurants to curb coronavirus, but online tastings and drinks parties help make up for that
  • Online events and social media influencers have contributed to the growth of a new market for wine in China among young women who drink at home

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Sommeliers sample wine at the Ao Yun vineyards in China’s Yunnan province. Photo: Fred Dufour/AFP

Bartenders’ corkscrews and restaurant sommeliers’ wine racks may have been gathering dust during the months of coronavirus pandemic, but that hasn’t stopped wine drinkers consuming their favourite tipple.

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“Public consumption has suffered, so a lot more people are drinking at home, which has been good news for wine merchants such as ourselves,” says Fifi Kirstein, managing partner at Golden Gate Wine, based in Sheung Wan, Hong Kong, which specialises in American wines from California, Oregon and Washington. “However, it is not making up for what is missing in wine sales to hotels, restaurants and bars.

“It will be interesting to see if people continue to enjoy wine at home in quite the same way when things open up again.”

The coronavirus pandemic has not only changed where people drink and when, it has shaken up the entire industry – challenging almost everyone involved to think of new ways to sell wine.

Wine sales in China are on the rise as the younger generation moves away from stronger drinks. Photo by Noel Celis/AFP
Wine sales in China are on the rise as the younger generation moves away from stronger drinks. Photo by Noel Celis/AFP
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Technology has changed the way that wine is produced – for example, growers are using drone-mounted multispectral and thermal imaging cameras to monitor irrigation of their vineyards – and online tastings are changing how wines are consumed.

Veteran wine critic James Suckling – owner of Wine Central, a bar in Hong Kong’s Soho nightlife area – has embraced the potential of online tastings.

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