Tokyo turnip with hairy crab roe at Tate Dining Room, which received its second Michelin star. Photo: Tate Dining Room
Tokyo turnip with hairy crab roe at Tate Dining Room, which received its second Michelin star. Photo: Tate Dining Room
Susan Jung
Opinion

Opinion

Feast or Famine by Susan Jung

So what if most Michelin-starred restaurants are expensive? They provide pleasure, and employment

  • Critics say that by rating mostly expensive restaurants, Michelin serves only the rich who can afford their food, and should do more for cheaper places
  • For Michelin this is a no-win argument. It could subsidise such restaurants, you say. But it couldn’t afford to help them all, so how to choose beneficiaries?

Tokyo turnip with hairy crab roe at Tate Dining Room, which received its second Michelin star. Photo: Tate Dining Room
Tokyo turnip with hairy crab roe at Tate Dining Room, which received its second Michelin star. Photo: Tate Dining Room
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