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Food and Drinks
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Will lab-grown foie gras satisfy chefs and gourmets? Paris-based start-up is banking on its cultured fatty duck liver

  • Gourmey has raised US$10 million from European and US investors to help perfect its recipe for creating fattened duck liver in a laboratory
  • ‘In terms of taste and texture, we’re 90 per cent there,’ said Gourmey co-founder Victor Sayous, a doctoral student in molecular biology

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Marion Gaff, a food engineer at Gourmey, carries out density tests on lab-grown foie gras at the start-up’s laboratory in Paris, France. Photo: Bloomberg
Agence France-Presse

It’s the quintessential French delicacy, but increasingly targeted by animal welfare activists: so can foie gras grown from duck cells find a place at the gourmet’s table?

That’s the goal for Gourmey, a Paris-based venture that raised US$10 million from European and US investors this month to perfect its recipe for making fattened duck liver in a lab.

“There’s a very strong need for an alternative to regular foie gras, a controversial product that needs to reinvent itself,” said Nicolas Morin-Forest, one of Gourmey’s three founders. “We want to show that cultured meat is not limited to burgers but can also be used for gastronomic products.”

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Duck livers, a speciality of southwest France in particular, are prized either on their own – star chef Alain Ducasse has served it seared with braised pears – or cooked as a velvety foie gras paté.

A slice of lab-grown foie gras made by Gourmey. Photo: Bloomberg
A slice of lab-grown foie gras made by Gourmey. Photo: Bloomberg

It is obtained by force-feeding ducks with a tube stuck down their throats, a practice denounced by critics as unnecessarily cruel and distressing for the animals. California has outlawed foie gras sales for years and New York plans to do so next year.

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