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Hong Kong
LifestyleFood & Drink

Organic coffee grown and roasted in Hong Kong the fruit of a sustainable farming project in roadless corner of New Territories

  • Among the organic crops sown on former rice paddies in Lai Chi Wo, a village in the northeast New Territories, are turmeric, ginger, melons … and coffee bushes
  • From a small start, there are more than 700 bushes that this year could yield 70kg of beans. Once roasted they make coffee with ‘good body and smooth taste’

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Hong Kong is not yet known for its homegrown coffee, but it soon could be – since 2015, Lai Chi Wo (pictured) in the New Territories has worked with a university to produce coffee beans. Photo: Centre for Civil Society and Governance, the University of Hong Kong
Bernice Chan

From Ma Liu Shui pier, it takes a small ferry 90 minutes to get to Lai Chi Wo, a remote village in Hong Kong’s northeastern New Territories.

In July, the settlement is stiflingly hot and humid, and mosquitoes (always on the hunt for fresh blood) swarm around visitors. It’s a short walk to the village from the pier, and a slightly longer one to fields where a surprising plant grows – coffee bushes.

The bushes, part of the HSBC Rural Sustainability programme sponsored by HSBC, a global bank, bear small, round, mostly green fruit – called “coffee cherries” – that have yet to ripen. This crop will be harvested in November.

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Katie Chick Lai-hiu, the senior project manager, plucks the few that have already turned red and puts them in a basket. “Hong Kong doesn’t have a very high elevation, and it’s hard to increase the density of coffee beans because there’s not enough temperature variance,” says Chick, who is from the University of Hong Kong’s Centre for Civil Society and Governance (CCSG).

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Reviving a remote Hong Kong village through growing coffee

Reviving a remote Hong Kong village through growing coffee

“This is a limitation that might affect the quality of coffee beans grown – but there are many factors that can affect quality. We’re trying to see if there are other ways to improve the flavour of our coffee.”

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The fields outside the walled village, a two-and-a-half hour hike from the nearest road, aren’t just used for growing coffee beans. Organic turmeric, ginger and winter melons – some weighing more than 6kg (13 pounds) – are cultivated as part of the programme, too.
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