Hong Kong restaurant scene back to (almost) full glory, but owners worry over new pressures

With restaurants like The Chairman and Godenya impossible to get into, things are looking much better for restaurateurs, even with continuing restrictions

Owners say they are staying vigilant, and with things such as the rising cost of produce to consider, there’s no time to relax

Reading Time:6 minutes

Hong Kong restaurants have filled up again, with many of the top establishments booked out for well into the future. Photo: Xiaomei Chen

Published: 8:15am, 16 Oct 2021Updated: 1:24pm, 16 Oct 2021

Eighteen months ago in April 2020, during Hong Kong’s second wave of the coronavirus pandemic, I put a temporary hiatus on restaurant reviews. The food and beverage scene – normally so dynamic – had come to an almost complete standstill, with very few new establishments opening.

Back then, restrictions were quite relaxed compared to those implemented later: restaurants were able to remain open, although at half capacity, and with tables spaced 1.5 metres (5ft) apart. Still, restaurants were going out of business, and one new place that I tried to review shut its doors within three days of my visit.

Stricter measures were implemented during the third and fourth waves of the coronavirus: at various times only two diners were allowed per table (which especially affected those serving Chinese food), restaurants had to close between 6pm and 5am (so there goes the more profitable dinner business), and there was a very brief prohibition on dining in – only takeaway was allowed.

But now, Hongkongers are eating out with a vengeance. We can’t travel, so we eat out, instead. Some restaurants are almost impossible to get into.

Bibi & Baba in Wan Chai opened during the pandemic. Photo: JIA Group

Want to eat at The Chairman, which is number 10 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, and number one on Asia’s 50 Best? Unless someone cancels so a table opens up, you’ll probably have to wait at least until April 2022.

Godenya, the tiny restaurant in Central that pairs sake with exquisite Japanese food? It’s booked out through February 2022, and when it releases seats for March, they’ll be snapped up within a few hours. Restaurants such as Batard, Hansik Goo, Whey, Ando and Mono are just as popular.

Select Voice

Choose your listening speed

Get through articles 2x faster

1.25x

250 WPM

Slow

Average

Fast

00:0000:00

1.25x