Review | Hong Kong new restaurant review: Percy’s – succulent seafood, from fish skins perfectly deep-fried to lobster bao
- Deep-fried fish skins so fresh they were still warm got the meal off to the perfect start, and the lobster bao came in a soft bun with tender meat inside
- Swordfish schnitzel was enjoyable and not overcooked, while cobia with vegetable tabbouleh was a thing of beauty, and the best dish of the night
Percy’s had me at hello.
Well, it was “hello” followed by “Here’s our snack of deep-fried fish skins” as the manager placed a bowl in front of my guest and me after we’d ordered our meal.
As much as I love commercial fried fish skins, they pale in comparison to ones that are so fresh they’re still warm, and glistening with the oil they’ve been cooked in. These had a delicate crunch and were lightly spiced with what tasted like Lawry’s Seasoned Salt. My guest and I quickly polished off the bowl.
Which unfortunately didn’t leave much space in our stomachs for the rest of the meal.
Percy’s, which is still in its soft-opening phase, specialises in responsibly sourced seafood, and was so new when we visited they didn’t have a liquor license. The menu listed nine hot or cold starters and eight mains, with only one meat option.
My guest ate his lobster bao (HK$118) in about a minute – I almost didn’t get the chance to take a bite of the soft bun and tender lobster meat.
Yokai, new at H Queens – varied and tasty Japanese menu
My order of clams with Calabrian chilli (HK$198) was a generous portion for a starter. The local clams had a salty sweetness that was enhanced by white wine, onions and chilli. While we liked the accompaniment of ’nduja garlic sourdough on its own, the intensity of the spicy, soft sausage overwhelmed the clam broth when we tried eating the two together. We asked for plain bread to soak up the sauce.
I normally avoid swordfish because it can be dry, but we enjoyed the swordfish schnitzel (HK$448). It was a far thicker piece of fish than we expected from the name (schnitzel is usually a thin slice of meat) but that’s probably what prevented it from being dry – that and the fact that it wasn’t overcooked. But the caviar beurre blanc was too rich for the fish, and we were glad we’d asked for it on the side. The fish was fine with just a squeeze of lemon.
Our second main course of cobia with vegetable tabbouleh (HK$378) was a thing of beauty, and my favourite dish of the night. The chunks of tender fish were served on a sheet of crisp pastry spread with a thin layer of smoked yogurt, and colourful tabbouleh, which provided acidity and crunch.
There are only two choices for dessert: a passion fruit semifreddo with mango and papaya, and – our choice – pandan cake with kaya, coconut and ginger (HK$98 each). The pandan cake was layered, and covered with a buttercream icing which we immediately cut off – it was too heavy after our substantial meal. The cake itself was delicious – light and airy, and with just enough pandan flavour.
Percy’s, 18 Shelley Street, Central, tel: 2898 2699. About HK$675 per person, without drinks or the service charge.
