China’s tandoori story: how the oven travelled from India down the Silk Road, feeding communities, stars and presidents
- The tandoor is a versatile, super hot oven that is popular across South, Central and Western Asia
- Sikhs feed devotees for free using communal tandoors, and tandoori cooking has been loved by world leaders
Wait, did I say tandoori cuisine? It was a revelation to see the blazing pits being used in China to cook a staggering variety of dishes. From golden baked dumplings to sesame-encrusted naan bread, juicy kebabs, lamb, samsa (akin to the Indian samosa), a pie bursting with lamb, carrot and onions and more, this is a tandoor lover’s paradise.
However, the question at the back of my mind was – how did the tandoor end up in China? New Delhi-based chef Dwaipayan Sarkar, who has travelled extensively across China, says Turpan was a vital outpost on the Silk Road, a highway of trade routes connecting China, the Middle East and Europe.
“These routes were established by the Han dynasty in 130BC and were central to the economic, cultural, political and religious interactions between these regions,” he says. “Spices, silk, textiles, food, animals, produce … everything was carried and traded on this route and a lot of multicultural mingling was happening, too.
“Many large traders carried their tandoors with them and fed hungry caravans and military scouts as well as local populations. Some traders ended up settling in China, which further popularised tandoori cuisine in the country.”