‘It’s like reminding myself I am a Hongkonger’: drinking Hong Kong-style milk tea in the UK offers émigrés a taste of home
- As thousand of Hongkongers leave their city, many are finding comfort in a familiar taste: Hong Kong milk tea, which is growing in popularity in Britain
- For some it’s a political statement, for others it’s nostalgia, but either way, five milk tea brands have emerged in the UK in the past two years
In London, Wong Wai-yi misses the taste of home. A year ago, the 31-year-old musician was in Hong Kong, earning a good living composing for TV and films and teaching piano.
Today, she makes about half as much in London, working part-time as a server alongside her musical pursuits. She chose the job in part because staff meals allow her to save money on food.
It’s a difficult adjustment. And Wong, who left Hong Kong with her boyfriend in January, has turned to a hometown staple to keep her grounded: milk tea. She takes the drink to parties with Hong Kong friends and gives bottles to colleagues as gifts.
“It’s like reminding myself I am a Hongkonger. It will be fine as long as we are willing to endure the hardships and work hard,” said Wong, who left as part of an exodus that began the National Security Law was passed in 2020.
As tens of thousands leave Hong Kong for new lives abroad, many are craving a flavour from childhood that’s become a symbol of the city’s culture: the sweet, heavy tea with evaporated milk that’s served both hot and cold.