‘Everyone is trying it’: can the French embrace cuisine served without alcohol? It’s a hot debate

Low- and no-alcohol drinks are becoming increasingly common around the world, but the trend has been slower to catch on in wine-loving France

Some are embracing the change, while others, like iconic French chef Guy Savoy, are more sceptical. ‘It doesn’t fit’ for a country with great wine, he says

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Non-alcoholic drinks are a growing trend, even in wine-loving France, but can it last? Photo: Shutterstock

Published: 4:15pm, 5 Jan 2023Updated: 4:24pm, 5 Jan 2023

It remains an uncomfortably foreign idea for some, but even the wine-loving French are experimenting with non-alcoholic drinks these days.

Being pregnant or the designated driver in France – or attempting a “dry January” after a booze-soaked festive season – has tended to leave few exciting drinks options when dining out.

“When I was pregnant, it was annoying to go to a restaurant and be stuck with water for the whole night,” said Argentinian sommelier Paz Levinson.

She works with Anne-Sophie Pic, the female chef with the most Michelin stars in the world, and they have pioneered new approaches to drinks-pairing, such as a Brazilian coffee infusion served with the venison at their triple-starred Valence restaurant.

“It’s starting to catch on,” said Pic. “Everyone is trying it.”

Argentinian sommelier Paz Levinson has helped pioneer new approaches to pairing drinks. Photo: AFP

Paris-based mixologist Yann Daniel admits he was “fairly dubious” about the idea at first, but quickly realised how many people were thirsty for low- and non-alcoholic concoctions.