An order of squirrel, sir? How London’s ‘invasive species supper clubs’ aim to rebalance the ecosystem by serving everything from grey squirrel to American signal crayfish

In London, chefs are exploring turning non-native pests such as grey squirrel and Japanese knotweed into meals at ‘invasive species supper clubs’

Advocates say eating species that are detrimental to the environment is about bringing balance back into the ecosystem, but some scientists are not convinced

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How do you deal with the overpopulation of an invasive species like the grey squirrel in the UK? In London, a restaurant is tackling the issue by serving them up to diners. Photo: AFP

Published: 4:15am, 25 Sep 2023Updated: 4:51am, 25 Sep 2023

A London restaurant is exploring whether eating invasive species such as grey squirrel, American signal crayfish and Japanese knotweed could help fight their spread, but scientists remain sceptical.

The idea behind several “invasive species supper clubs”, the last of which was served on September 19 at “zero waste” Silo restaurant in East London, is to “creatively popularise species that are detrimental to the environment”, says chef Douglas McMaster, who runs the establishment.

The omnipresent grey squirrels, signal crayfish and Japanese knotweed are all “forces of destruction” that squeeze out local populations, but all are edible and “delicious”, he added.

The invaders are the subject of a recently published report with the support of the United Nations, which gave rise to calls from experts to “wake up” to the “scourge”.

A prepared crayfish dish at Silo, a zero-waste restaurant, in London. Photo: AFP

McMaster would like a legitimate supply chain and for the species to become “an accessible resource” for chefs.