Michelin Guide director Gwendal Poullennec on making the ‘difficult but necessary’ calls that can make or break restaurants

Michelin stars are given and removed on his command, but Gwendal Poullennec says his role is just ‘to ensure continuity’ of the guide he has overseen since 2018

As for the chefs he’s disappointed during his tenure, that’s just part of the job, says the Frenchman has led the global expansion of the restaurant guide

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Michelin Guide director Gwendal Poullennec has opened up about how he manages his relationships with top chefs, and the hard choices he must make to ensure the continuity of the famous guide. Photo: JBV News

Published: 12:45pm, 20 Mar 2024

As director of the Michelin Guide for the past five years, Gwendal Poullennec has the power to make the most hardened kitchen masters tremble in their chef’s hat.

Poullennec’s motto, according to team members, is “On the move” – which he applies to himself as much as the famous red guidebook he has helped spread around the world.

The 44-year-old walks fast and likes to burn off all the calories on his bike – he has 14,000km (8,700 miles) on its counter.

One bitter chef also remarked that he can spend as little as 30 seconds on the phone with those who lose one of the Michelin Guide’s intensely coveted stars.

Poullennec on stage at the Michelin Guide Hong Kong and Macau unveiling ceremony, with chef Olivier Elzer of Hong Kong restaurant L’Envol, in 2019.

Poullennec’s power can be measured by the great number of “no comments” that his name arouses when we ask for comment from people in the industry.

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