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Food and Drinks
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Ukrainian golden ale is heading towards global recognition, as beer sommelier champions its craft brewers

  • Ukraine’s brewing industry is working hard to gain recognition for its craft beers, notably golden ale, and Lana Svitankova is leading the charge
  • The country’s first beer sommelier, she has been working with Ukrainian brewers and professionals in the US, the UK and Europe to promote its golden ale

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Ukrainian Golden Ale from Varvar Brewery. Following a sustained campaign by the country’s first certified beer sommelier, the recipe has gained some international recognition. Photo: Varvar brewery
Bloomberg

In the months following Russia’s February 2022 invasion of Ukraine, US businesses were eager to show support for the besieged nation by flying flags of blue and gold. Craft beer makers were no exception.

The bright hues were emblazoned on tap handles, and beers named Brew for Ukraine, Resist and Putin Huylo (a Ukrainian insult) were brewed to raise awareness of the war and relief funds for its victims.

Some even produced the native Ukrainian golden ale.

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But when drinkers curious to learn more about this hazy, malt-forward wheat ale looked to enthusiast site Untappd, the US-based Brewer’s Association or the international Beer Judge Certification Programme, they found that Ukrainian golden ale didn’t officially exist.

Lana Svitankova, 41, has spent the past three years working to change this. A beer writer and Ukraine’s first certified cicerone (beer sommelier), she has been working with Ukrainian brewers and industry professionals in the US, the UK and the rest of Europe to gain worldwide recognition for Ukrainian golden ale.

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As her homeland endures a third year of conflict, the effort to establish a Ukrainian brewing identity has taken on fresh meaning and momentum.

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