Why Noma’s Taipei pop-up didn’t pop for me with its surprisingly off-balance meal
Noma’s exclusive meal at new lifestyle destination YMS by Onefifteen in Taipei served up some delicious dishes but felt too disjointed
It would be an understatement to declare that Noma in Copenhagen, one of the world’s most famous restaurants, has a cult following. Founded by René Redzepi in 2003, it remains at the top of many foodie-travellers’ bucket lists and brought Nordic cuisine and ingredients into the international spotlight.
I myself was booked to go in April 2020, before a certain virus put a stop to that particular journey. Somehow, years later, I never quite felt the urge to make another booking. Perhaps I was tired and more than a little disillusioned by the culture of fine dining and all of its trappings.
Still, I accepted an invitation this month to an exclusive pop-up by the Noma team in collaboration with the Taiwanese fashion brand Onefifteen, which has taken over the site of the former US army barracks in Taipei’s Yangmingshan area to create a multifaceted lifestyle destination, YMS by Onefifteen.
With numerous spaces such as Gallery 4, Spa 6, Lab 10 (a teahouse and whisky lounge) and the full-service Restaurant 12, the collection of modernist white buildings will also welcome, eventually, Dwell 8 (guest accommodation).
To break in the dining space, which will primarily be a Spanish fine-dining venue, it appears the founders decided to reach for the stars – by inviting Noma for a four-night pop-up exclusive to YMS by Onefifteen members.