‘You’ll notice the difference’: French almond makers take on US growers

The scent of marzipan wafts through the air as confectioners from a century-old company in southern France prepare calissons, one of Provence’s famed sweets made from candied melon and crushed almonds.

French producers have, over the past decade, sought to revive almond production, and the traditional gourmet treat – first introduced in Provence under King Rene in the 15th century – is now increasingly made with locally grown almonds.

But production declined in the mid-20th century, with the overnight frost of 1956 devastating orchards.

While the vast majority of almonds are grown in the United States, French producers have sought to maintain their presence against US competitors, aiming to position the locally grown almonds in a premium segment and promote environmental awareness.

“I bet – even without being Pierre Herme, the best pastry chef in the world – that if you taste an American almond and then a Provence-grown almond, you’ll notice the difference in flavour immediately,” said Alexis Bertucat, communications director for Le Roy Rene, a confectionery company.