Why Dali in China’s Yunnan province is such a great place for food adventurers
Yunnan’s climate and geography are ideal for growing a wide range of produce, and chefs in Dali are taking the cuisine to the next level
Restaurant-goers in Dali, in China’s western Yunnan province, are spoiled by the historical city’s abundance of quality ingredients. Fridges stacked with seasonal vegetables, tofu concoctions and fresh cuts of meat are common sights for diners to browse, while fried innards and fish vie for attention in giant metal bowls. Aquatic vegetables soaking in water line floors. This is farm-to-table, Dali style.
Thanks to its temperate climate and diverse terrain, Yunnan is suitable for growing all manner of produce, from rice and avocados to tomatillos and blueberries. Its culinary practices are equally varied, shaped by the traditions of over 20 ethnic communities that converge there.
A two-hour train ride from the provincial capital Kunming, Dali, with its bountiful harvests and slower pace of life, is fertile ground for culinary experimentation.
Chang Hua, the chef behind Youshi, a modern Chinese restaurant, first visited the city after finishing culinary school in 2015, eager for a fresh start away from his home in Anhui province. He has called Dali home for over a decade.
His time in Yunnan has been a chain of experiments. He began with a makeshift catering business, delivering fried rice on his scooter. He later ran a couple of mala tang (spicy hotpot) businesses, private hotel kitchens and a small restaurant.
Inspired by a trip to Shanghai, where he tasted polished approaches to China’s southwestern cuisines, he opened Youshi in 2020.