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Food and Drinks
LifestyleFood & Drink

Trailblazing Chinese restaurant in Sweden is showing what the culture is really all about

From baijiu to Sichuan cuisine, Surfers in Stockholm has it all. Now, this Chinese culture hub is gearing up to celebrate 20 years

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Surfers chef Cao Dayu prepares a dish at the Chinese restaurant in Stockholm, Sweden. The restaurant has come a long way from its humble roots on a Swedish island to become one of the capital’s most popular Chinese restaurants. Photo: Emil Lif
Victoria Burrows

Partway through our meal at Surfers, a Chinese restaurant in Sweden’s capital of Stockholm, Ludvig Saaf bursts into song. It is a Mongolian drinking song about fermented mare’s milk, but few in the dining room can understand the Mandarin lyrics.

We join in, though, answering each rousing “Hey!” with a rowdy one of our own. At the end, we shout “ganbei” – a Chinese term meaning “cheers” – and down our thimble-sized glasses of baijiu, a Chinese spirit.

Saaf, tall and blond with a pierced lower lip, chose a strong multigrain baijiu with an alcohol volume of 52 per cent to pair with the full-flavoured spread before us: blue and white porcelain dishes of peanuts with roasted chillies, lotus root in red oil, grilled oysters topped with confit garlic and chilli, and steaming dandan noodles.

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Earlier, we sampled a jasmine tea lager from Master Gao, China’s first microbrewery, and a Tibetan pale ale, which is brewed 3,000 metres (9,800ft) above sea level.

We also enjoyed Cantonese shrimp balls and glossy stir-fried greens, and fish wrapped in banana leaf – a delicacy of the Dai ethnic group from the southern part of China’s Yunnan province. Saaf chose a far mellower baijiu with a rice aroma to match these more delicate dishes.

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Saaf lived in mainland China for six years. His wife is from Guizhou province in the southwest, and he did his master’s thesis on the dairy cows of Yunnan. Not only is he a Chinese drinks expert at Surfers, but he is also northern Europe’s biggest importer of baijiu and Shaoxing wine – and his enthusiasm is infectious.
Ludvig Saaf is the Chinese drinks expert at Surfers.
Ludvig Saaf is the Chinese drinks expert at Surfers.
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