A quick guide to sake, traditional Japanese drink that’s as nuanced as wine

If your experience with sake is limited to the warm cup at your local sushi spot, you are missing the larger world of the traditional Japanese drink, which is as nuanced and layered as wine. Sake is brewed (not distilled) from rice, yeast, water and koji, a mould that converts the rice starch into sugar. Premium sakes might add some distilled alcohol. Sometimes other ingredients are added for flavour, but purists stick to the essentials. “It’s quite incredible to think of the variation in flavour sake provides, given these constraints,” says Yoko Kumano, who with Kayoko Akabori owns the shop Umami Mart in Oakland, California and wrote the new book, Everyday Sake. She likes to remind people that sake is a food-pairing beverage. “It is meant to be enjoyed with food – and not just sushi,” she says. Umami Mart’s monthly sake club has tried pairings with cheese, pizza, French cuisine and more. Every batch of sake – which in Japan is called nihonshu – is overseen by a toji, or master brewer, whose skill shapes the final flavour. Here are some quick sake facts so you can sound knowledgeable about it at a restaurant or wine store. It begins with rice The first step in making sake is rice polishing. Each grain’s outer layers are milled away to reveal its starchy centre. The more polished the rice, the lighter and more refined the sake; the less polished, the earthier the flavour. The two main families of sake are junmai and honjozo. Within those, you have grades like ginjo and daiginjo, reflecting how much the rice has been polished. Grade names are on the label, though not necessarily the polishing ratio. Junmai Junmai means “pure rice”, with no distilled alcohol added. These sakes range from light to full-bodied, and often have more umami and structure than other sakes: think earthy, rice-forward flavours that pair beautifully with grilled meats or heartier dishes. Junmai is often served warmed or at room temperature, highlighting its comforting depth of flavour. Honjozo Honjozo contains a touch of distilled alcohol, which lightens the texture and enhances aroma without significantly changing the alcohol content. Smooth and versatile, it pairs with everything from tempura to sushi to teriyaki. Ginjo Ginjo is more delicate, made with rice polished down to 60 per cent of its original size and fermented at lower temperatures. A bit of distilled alcohol may be added to enhance aroma. The flavour is often floral and fruity. Ginjo is best served chilled, and pairs well with lighter dishes like sashimi, sushi, salads and delicate seafood. Daiginjo Daiginjo are the most extensively milled sakes, with at least 50 per cent of the outer rice layers removed. The result is aromatic, delicate and often considered the highest-quality sake. Expect a higher price tag. Nigori Nigori is coarsely filtered, leaving some rice sediment behind. This gives it a milky appearance and a slightly sweet, creamy texture. Its sweetness pairs especially well with spicy dishes. Sparkling sake In recent years, sparkling sakes – some naturally carbonated, some artificially – have become popular as a festive touch to many occasions. Nama Kumano says nama (unpasteurised sake) has been growing more popular, and appeals to people who like fresh, young beverages like Beaujolais Nouveau or fruity wheat beer. Make sure it is refrigerated both at the store and at home. Creative additions Hirohisa Hayashi, chef-owner and sake sommelier at Hirohisa, a restaurant in New York, makes different versions of plum sake each year. He steeps plums grown in Washington state in low-alcohol sake, sometimes with shiso (a minty herb) and, this year, Okinawan brown sugar. Serving and storage tips Ultimately, whether sake is served warmed, chilled or at room temperature is subjective. “In general, classic dry junmai sake is often said to become softer and more approachable when slightly warmed,” Hayashi says. “On the other hand, if you warm a fragrant daiginjo, its delicate aromas and refined character can be lost.” Sake is best consumed within a year of bottling. Store it in a cool, dark place. Once opened, refrigerate and enjoy within a week. Unpasteurised sake (nama) must be refrigerated and consumed within a few days. Glassware Traditional cups include small ochoko, but wine glasses also work well. Finally, take a cue from Japan: pouring for others and refilling their glasses before they are empty is an act of hospitality and attentiveness. And do not forget to clink glasses and say “kanpai” (“cheers”) before you sip.

A quick guide to sake, traditional Japanese drink that’s as nuanced as wine

.css-1c6uqr6{color:inherit;font-weight:inherit;font-size:inherit;font-family:inherit;line-height:inherit;overflow-wrap:break-word;}Junmai, honjozo, ginjo, daiginjo – find out how sakes are classed, their best food pairings and more with these useful facts

Junmai, honjozo, ginjo, daiginjo – find out how sakes are classed, their best food pairings and more with these useful facts