Where does ma lai go come from and why is the classic dim sum dish so special?

Although ma lai go was voted one of the worst dim sum dishes to order in a 2023 discussion post on the “Hong Kong Dim Sum Concern Group” social media forum, it remains a yum cha staple, loved by those who enjoy its understated yet complex brown-sugar flavour. Also known as Malay sponge cake or Chinese steamed cake, it is one of the many dim sum dishes most representative of Hong Kong culture, with its blend of Western influence and Eastern refinement. But, like many things in an era of rapid change, the unique techniques that were defined by immigration and adaptation are becoming casualties of the modern world. The story begins in British Malaya, an era of colonial rule that spanned from 1826 to 1942. British settlers brought with them a love of classic Western sponge cakes, but the local environment lacked traditional ovens. To adapt, people used a more available cooking method: steaming with pandan leaves. Chef Tony Chow Siu-man, a senior instructor at Hong Kong’s Chinese Culinary Institute in Pok Fu Lam, explains that compared with baking, steamed food retains its moisture and comes out soft and tender, “even melting in the mouth”. Local cooks in Malaysia supposedly also swapped out dairy for coconut milk and used brown sugar or palm sugar, resulting in a deeper, caramelised flavour profile. With Portugal being one of the main maritime powers of the time, some variations of this story also claim that ma lai go may have been influenced by Portuguese merchants and their dessert traditions in the same way they had a hand in Japanese castella cake. Nevertheless, it is often explained that, as travellers and labourers moved between the Malay Peninsula and the bustling ports of Hong Kong and Guangdong, the recipe travelled with them. Cantonese dim sum chefs, famed for their meticulous attention to texture, took this Malay cake and elevated it with their own regional twist: steaming it in bamboo steamers, removing the pandan leaves and also returning to the use of cow’s milk. “Traditional, old-style malai cake is made using the ancient method of fermentation known as fa zong, which involves adding a starter culture to the dough,” Chow says, pointing out that the method is similar to that for making sourdough bread. This results in an Asian cake with a light, airy texture reminiscent of Victoria sponge cake, but it is also distinctly different from its Western counterpart due to its rich fermentation process. This ferment-then-steam technique can also be spotted in other Chinese cakes, such as bak tong go, or white sugar sponge cake. A well-made, traditional ma lai go will have a “qilin pattern” on its surface – ripple-like rings of lighter colour reminiscent of the skin of Chinese mythology’s hoofed chimerical creature. The rings indicate that the cake has a healthy amount of air pockets, thereby giving it a light, soft and springy texture. They can also show that the butter in the batter has been evenly distributed during the steaming process. A good ma lai go is fluffy and not too dry. It is generally agreed among chefs that a well-made ma lai go is one you can finish without needing to drink any tea afterwards. However, because the fermentation process is relatively time-consuming, many modern versions of ma lai go served in restaurants are made using baking powder to make the process quicker and simpler. “Compared with traditional, time-honoured methods of making ma lai go, the flavour [of the baking powder variation] is somewhat bland, lacking the distinctive taste of natural fermentation. The texture is also rather coarse and lacks elasticity,” Chow says. Despite ma lai go being a Hong Kong staple in dim sum restaurants, some traditional eateries report a slow decline in its popularity. Chow suggests that diners may perceive the cake’s simple appearance – usually cut into squares and served plainly without additional sides or condiments – as lacking in refinement and not being good value for money. “That’s why in recent years, some restaurants have begun serving it in its original steamer basket, presenting it whole to enhance its visual appeal and better attract diners,” he notes. “As an instructor at the Chinese Culinary Institute, when teaching the traditional techniques of dim sum making, I always remind my students that, in addition to flavour, modern diners place equal importance on the visual appeal, aroma, taste and overall aesthetic experience.” While traditional methods should be preserved, Chow argues that presentation must evolve with the times to ensure that these classic dim sum dishes continue to be appreciated in the market. But it is, perhaps, not the end of the beloved cake. As younger generations move away from the strict rules of traditions, new variations of the Malay sponge cake have reached the market. This includes inventions like layered ma lai go with additional fillings to flavour the simple steamed batter. Ma lai rolls, too, are an option for a smaller, sweeter bite. From its roots as a steamed adaptation of European sponge cake in colonial Malaya, ma lai go has come a long way – even if its popularity is now more precarious in Hong Kong than when it first arrived. A testament to skilful fermentation and expert steaming, it remains a cherished bite of history on the dim sum table.

Where does ma lai go come from and why is the classic dim sum dish so special?

.css-1c6uqr6{color:inherit;font-weight:inherit;font-size:inherit;font-family:inherit;line-height:inherit;overflow-wrap:break-word;}Also known as Chinese steamed cake and Malay sponge cake, ma lai go represents Hong Kong culture with its Western and Eastern influences

Also known as Chinese steamed cake and Malay sponge cake, ma lai go represents Hong Kong culture with its Western and Eastern influences