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Food and Drinks
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How UK chefs are reinventing Cantonese prawn toast in thrillingly delicious ways

A beloved Chinese restaurant dish across Britain, Cantonese prawn toast is being transformed in ways that must be tasted to be believed

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The classic prawn toast at Cafe Kowloon in London comes covered in sesame seeds. Chefs around the UK are now experimenting with the dish. Photo: Cafe Kowloon
Victoria Burrows
British chefs are in the midst of a love affair with Cantonese prawn toast as the dish appears on tables across the country, spanning fine-dining hotspots, chef’s counters and street food markets.

In London, at Thai-Americana Chet’s in The Hoxton Shepherd’s Bush hotel, the dish is transformed into a crisp bun filled with house-made prawn paste, while at Sri Lankan street food specialist Adoh, it becomes a plate of neat, rectangular, chilli-spiced sandwiches.

At Cafe Kowloon in London Fields, opened by restaurateurs Frank Yeung and Abhinav Malde and acclaimed Filipino chef Budgie Montoya, the prawn toast is made with thick-cut sourdough from the lauded E5 Bakehouse next door and served with the crispy prawn heads plus a chilli oil and spring onion mayonnaise.

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At the two-Michelin-star, 13-seater Humble Chicken in Soho, Japanese-German chef-owner Angelo Sato serves a deluxe version of the classic Cantonese snack as part of his exquisite 16-course tasting menu that combines his Asian and European heritage.

At Humble Chicken, prawn toast is made with a langoustine tail laid over shiso, ssamjang and deep-fried tempura toast. Photo: Humble Chicken
At Humble Chicken, prawn toast is made with a langoustine tail laid over shiso, ssamjang and deep-fried tempura toast. Photo: Humble Chicken

Sato’s take replaces the prawn with a generous langoustine tail, briefly grilled over binchotan (Japanese white charcoal) until plump and bouncy, and kissed by smoke. The tail reclines on a fresh shiso leaf and a layer of ssamjang (Korean fermented soy paste) made with fresh tomato and the brains of the langoustine, which in turn sits on a rectangle of deep-fried tempura toast generously sprinkled with sesame seeds.

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The dish is named after a nearby Chinatown diner, Old Town 97, that stays open until 3am and is also the site of the team’s “late-night, post-service shenanigans”.

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