Why is natto suddenly so popular? How its health benefits outweigh the smell and taste
Exports of the Japanese fermented soybeans have tripled in the past eight years as new consumers are attracted by their ‘superfood’ benefits
Sticky, translucent strings dangle from Wesley Smith’s chopsticks as the American tourist eats his natto, the loved-and-hated Japanese fermented soybean superfood going global one slimy mouthful at a time.
The latest trade statistics show Japan’s exports of the highly nutritious gooey beans tripled from 2017 to 5,248 tonnes (5,784 tons) in 2025, with China and the United States topping the list of destinations.
The delicacy infused with beneficial bacteria remains a traditional Japanese breakfast staple, but its pungent aroma, viscous texture and yeasty taste divide even its homeland.
“I thought it was a little funky at first,” Smith says during a lunch at Natto Kobo Sendai-ya, a Tokyo restaurant that offers all-you-can-eat natto – an idea of hell for some people, heaven for others.
But over the years, the mushy yellow-brown legumes “became an acquired taste like a strong cheese can, because you know how cheese can smell like dirty socks”, he says.
Recent years have seen natto join a series of fermented foods, from kimchi to kombucha, that have surged in popularity worldwide as Americans in particular seek better digestive health following the Covid-19 pandemic.