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This sauce is deeply rich, packed with umami – and created in Hong Kong

A Hong Kong restaurateur transformed his burger shop with Exotica Umami – Ex M for short. Now, he is elevating luxury dining with it

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Exotica Umami – Ex M for short – is the brainchild of Dan Gan, who invented it at his burger shop Exotica Gelatea in Causeway Bay. Photo: Chloe Loung
Chloe Loung

Four years ago, Dan Gan was a restaurateur running Exotica Gelatea, a 200 sq ft (19-square-metre) Italy-inspired burger-and-gelato shop on Sharp Street in Hong Kong’s Causeway Bay neighbourhood. The location was brutal.

“Every person that stopped by or passed would say, ‘You’re dead. You chose the wrong location,’” Gan recalls. “There were about eight burger restaurants within five minutes’ distance all around us, and they had much better traffic because some of them were global brands.”

With no other staff and a business he feared would fail, he threw himself into the kitchen in an attempt to create a signature burger sauce that might keep him alive.

His restaurant at the time was built around an ancient Roman theme, so Gan looked back more than 2,000 years and unearthed the greatest elixir of the ancient table: garum, a fermented fish sauce full of umami.

After reinventing it to suit modern palates, what emerged was a savoury, complex marinade he eventually named Exotica Umami – Ex M for short.

Dan Gan at Sagano, the Kyoto-style Japanese restaurant at the New World Millennium Hong Kong Hotel with which he is currently collaborating. Photo: Chloe Loung
Dan Gan at Sagano, the Kyoto-style Japanese restaurant at the New World Millennium Hong Kong Hotel with which he is currently collaborating. Photo: Chloe Loung

Created in small batches, the marinade has a base made with premium pork, herbs and spices left to ferment for around 80 days.

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