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Susan Jung


Curry puffs, which are popular in Malaysia and Singapore, are few and far between in Hong Kong, so I started making my own. Being an obsessive type when it comes to cooking, it took numerous attempts before I came up with a version I liked, primarily because of the pastry. I tried using commercial puff pastry, which is sold in thin sheets, and several homemade versions made with butter, lard (which I rendered) and goose fat. The best were made with lard - the traditional fat for Chinese flaky pastry (although most bakeries now use shortening, which is an acceptable substitute). I doubt many readers will make their own flaky pastry, so I'm also outlining the technique for using commercial puff pastry; it's also delicious but the results won't be as flaky and delicate as in the photo.
Chinese flaky pastry
This dough is a classic Chinese recipe but uses a French technique for layering in the fat. Lard is sold in the refrigerated section of markets such as Oliver's and City'super. Buy the type that's not hydrogenated (it's usually made in Britain or Australia, rather than the US).
For the dough:
260 grams plain flour
60 grams lard or shortening, chilled
200ml warm water, or more as needed
For the fat layer:
195 grams plain flour
180 grams lard or shortening, chilled
Make the dough by mixing the flour with the lard or shortening. Add most of the water and stir until it forms a soft, cohesive dough. If it seems dry, add a little more warm water. Knead the dough briefly, shape into a square, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for about 30 minutes.
Make the fat layer by mixing the flour with the lard or shortening to form a soft, slightly sticky mass. Refrigerate in the mixing bowl for about 30 minutes.
On a lightly floured surface, pat the dough into a 22cm square. Gently pull on the four corners to stretch them a little thinner. Pat the fat layer into a 12cm diamond shape directly on top of the dough. Pull the corners of the dough over the fat layer, overlapping the dough to securely enclose the fat. Position the dough/fat package so one edge is parallel to the edge of the work surface nearest you. Roll the dough/fat into a rectangle about 38cm by 18cm, flouring as necessary to prevent it sticking to the work surface and the rolling pin. Fold the top third of the dough down towards the centre then the bottom third up and over the top, so it forms three layers. Reposition the dough so the short end is parallel to the edge of the work surface and roll to a 38cm by 18cm rectangle. Fold the dough again into three layers, then wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Repeat the rolling and layering twice then refrigerate for 30 minutes before rolling and layering another two times. Refrigerate for at least one hour.
Curry puffs
This filling is adapted from The Best of Singapore Cooking, by Leong Yee Soo. For a vegetarian version, increase the quantity of peas and substitute diced carrot for the meat, adding it at the same time you add the potato.
Homemade flaky pastry or three 20cm-square sheets of commercial puff pastry
180ml cooking oil, plus extra for deep-frying the puffs
200 grams onion, diced
250 grams potato, peeled and diced
85 grams shallot, thinly sliced
2 large garlic cloves, chopped
15 grams grated fresh ginger
250 grams minced beef or diced chicken thigh
20 grams curry powder
1/4 tsp cayenne pepper
200ml coconut cream
80 grams frozen peas
Granulated sugar, to taste
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
If using homemade flaky pastry, roll it on a floured surface into a 60cm by 22cm rectangle. Starting at the shorter end, roll the dough into a tight spiral (as with a Swiss roll). Wrap with plastic and refrigerate until needed. If using commercial puff pastry, lay the squares, slightly overlapping, end to end. Press firmly where they overlap then start at the short end and roll tightly. Wrap and refrigerate.
Heat 90ml oil in a skillet, add the onion and cook over a low heat until soft and translucent, then transfer to a bowl. Add 30ml oil to the skillet (no need to have washed it), add the potato and season lightly with salt. Stir to coat the potato with the oil then add about 50ml of water. Cover with the lid, turn the heat to low and simmer until the potato is tender. Increase the heat and cook until most of the water has evaporated. Add the potato to the onion then wash the pan. Heat 60ml of oil in the skillet, add the shallot and garlic and cook until soft. Add the chicken or beef, season with salt and cook over a medium-high heat to brown the meat. Stir in the curry powder and cayenne then lower the heat and cook for about five minutes, stirring frequently. If the ingredients stick to the pan, drizzle in a little more oil. Add the coconut cream and simmer until it has been absorbed but the mixture isn't dry. Add salt, pepper and a little sugar to taste. Stir in the peas then remove from the pan, allow to cool completely then refrigerate.
If using homemade pastry, cut the spiral about 1cm thick. On a floured work surface, roll each piece of dough to a 13cm circle. If using commercial dough, cut the spiral about 6mm thick and roll each piece to a 13cm circle. For both types of pastry doughs, place two heaped tablespoons of the cold filling in the centre of the circle. Lightly dampen half the circle with water then fold in half to enclose the filling. Press tightly to seal the edges then crimp them with your fingers. Gently shape each crescent so the centre sticks out slightly - it will look like a misshapen triangle, with the bottom edge slightly curved. Place on a tray lined with parchment paper and refrigerate.
Heat the oil in a pan to a depth of about 5cm. When the oil reaches 180 degrees Celsius, fry the curry puffs a few at a time; do not crowd the pan. When they're puffed and golden brown, remove from the oil and drain on paper towels. Serve hot. They can be reheated in the oven at 180 degrees.
Styling Corner Kitchen Cooking School
 
 


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