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Legends: kahk

Ramadan
Janice Leung

Ramadan, the Islamic holy month of fasting, is set to end this weekend. Marking its conclusion is the Eid ul-Fitr holiday.

The celebrations are also known as Hari Raya Puasa in Malaysia or Hari Lebaran in Indonesia. The festivities, which can last for a few days, include visiting friends and family to exchange gifts and, of course, feasting.

In Egypt,one of the most popular foods offered at this time is , sweet, yeast-risen cookies that can be filled with minced dates or figs, or baked plain.

It is thought they date back to around 1500BC. Images of kahk and the baking process can be found on the walls of the tombs of pharaohs who ruled in ancient Thebes. Honey was shown to be mixed with butter and flour, shaped and placed on stone tiles to be baked in an oven.

The sun has been the pattern on the cookies for much of their history, as it was the focal point of ancient Egyptian religion. When Christianity came to Egypt, it is said that kahk was used as a communion wafer and was stamped with a cross.

The sun pattern was brought back by Muslims during the Tulunid dynasty (AD868-905). Kahk became associated with well-wishing and charity.

Traditionally, the women in the family sit together and make kahk in the last few days of Ramadan, although these days in large cities they are usually store-bought. Its first use as a celebratory pastry for the end of Ramadan is credited to the Islamic head of state who founded the city of Cairo - the Fatimid Caliph Ma'adh Abu Tamim al-Mu'izz li Din Allah. He is said to have distributed the cookies to his subjects at the conclusion of Ramadan in AD969.

Egyptians love kahk so much it seems they'll eat them on as many occasions as possible, transcending religions and cultures - they're also served at Christmas, weddings and all sorts of other celebrations.

This article appeared in the South China Morning Post print edition as: When fast turns to feast, these sweet treats hit the spot
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