Taiwan’s Taroko National Park – stunning cliffs, beautiful trails and untamed nature
We visit the breathtaking coastal scenery of Qingshui Cliffs, walk one of the magnificent hiking trails in Taroko Gorge, and take in Hehuan Mountain’s panoramic views of forested peaks as they rise skywards
It may not appear on many “world’s most beautiful islands” lists, but Taiwan was once named Formosa – “Beautiful”. According to one oft-repeated story, this arose after Portuguese sailors came across Taiwan in 1542, and on seeing forested coastlines exclaimed “Ilha Formosa!” (“Beautiful Island!”).
If you only know places like Taipei, it may seem this beauty is long gone. Yet Taiwan is multifaceted, and for its most stunning coastal scenery you should head to Qingshui (Clear Water) Cliffs, about two-thirds of the way up the east coast.
Here, the mountains of central Taiwan plunge to the Pacific Ocean. Steep, verdant hillsides drop from peaks 800 metres high, and have been torn away at their bases to form cliffs of pale marble. On a fine morning the sea is tropical turquoise, turning milkier near the base of the cliffs thanks to calcium carbonate from the eroding rock.
Qingshui Cliffs are in the northeast corner of Taroko National Park, which encompasses a mountainous landscape with an area of some 920 square kilometres – not far short of the 1,104 square kilometres of land in Hong Kong. At the heart of the park is the magnificent Taroko Gorge.
The entrance to the gorge is in a deep valley that opens onto a narrow coastal plain just south of the cliffs. There's a national park visitor centre, from where you can take shuttle buses to key locations in the gorge, and head for one of the hiking trails.
The lowest and most popular of these is the Shakadang Trail. This leads alongside a tributary of the main river, and the early stage has been mostly carved into a cliff, almost forming a tunnel that is open on one side. The stream makes a wonderful sight, with pools as blue as the nearby ocean, along with waterfalls and cascades.