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Asia travel
LifestyleTravel & Leisure

Dive with hammerhead sharks in the crystal-clear waters of Yonaguni, Japan’s westernmost island

  • The waters around Yonaguni are exceptionally clear and are home to amazing rock formations
  • Large schools of hammerhead sharks pass the island between January and May

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Large schools of hammerhead sharks migrate past Yonaguni island between January and May.
Paul Niel

The turbulence does not dampen our excitement as we peer out of the aeroplane window. Below us, like an emerald in the deep blue sea, the small and windswept island of Yonaguni appears.

My wife and I have picked this unusual spot on the westernmost edge of Japan – a mere three hours flight from Hong Kong – for a last minute weekend family trip.

While it is also known for hiking and birdwatching, Yonaguni is most famous for its underwater world. In 1987 Kihachiro Aratake found a mysterious rock formation while searching for a good place to observe sharks. Strangely polished rock surfaces and the round openings in the rock made it look like an underwater temple – remnants of an old civilisation.

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The endless clarity of the water – visibility of over 30 metres is not uncommon here – gives it an even more magical feel.

Scuba divers explore the upper terrace of the Yonaguni monument. Photo: Alamy
Scuba divers explore the upper terrace of the Yonaguni monument. Photo: Alamy
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Soon after our arrival, I have a chance to explore this underwater world with the help of Yonaguni Diving Service. While outside temperatures are in the single digits, the water is still surprisingly warm. As our dive group of four glides slowly along what resembles a fortress wall, I cannot stop wondering: is it man-made? Natural?

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