Golden Triangle in northern Thailand opening up to tourists after decades at the centre of opium trade
- Colourfully dressed Akha tribeswomen give you the hard sell on handicrafts, and a smile, while descendants of defeated Chinese nationalist soldiers grow tea
- The unspoilt hills of Chiang Rai province, a mix of forest and farmland, ridges and valleys, stupas and stunning vistas, provide a tranquil, rustic getaway
The Akha hill-tribe lady had me at first glance with her blushes, laughter, and betel-nut-stained grin.
We were at the entrance to a small coffee shop just out of Doi Mae Salong, a mountain village strewn along a jungle-clad ridge line almost 1,400 metres up in the mountains of the Golden Triangle in northern Thailand.
All day we had been bombarded by brightly wrapped tribeswomen like her, all trying in to sell their trinkets and handicrafts. The Akha headdress is made from an aluminium and chromium back plate, which is attached to a cap adorned with baubles and trimmed with brightly coloured tassels and coins. They accompany blue cotton jackets, embroidered skirts and colourful calf wraps.
Tribespeople usually wear these clothes and headdress on special occasions, but in Mae Salong and other places with potential tourist business they are everyday wear for many.
This village was the first overnight stop on a mini road trip through these mountains. Even though it has grown in size and recognition in recent years, it is still a good few steps off the regular banana-pancake trail and has retained its rustic charm. Many of the villagers are farmers.