For one of Southeast Asia’s best sunrises, head to Thailand and the hills of northern Chiang Rai province
- Few sunrises in Southeast Asia can beat the one you’ll see on most winter mornings from the top of a mountain in Chiang Rai, northern Thailand
- Head there between December and mid-February for the highest chances of witnessing a memorable dawn
There are amazing sunrises to be seen all over Southeast Asia, but few – if any – can beat the natural light show you will find on most winter mornings over the mountains in Chiang Rai province, northern Thailand.
The sunrises there draw chill seekers from all over the country, and adventurous foreign visitors, to the mountains in the province’s southeast, and to Phu Chi Fah Forest Park, during the cold season. There, the sun emerges from a cloud inversion – a white mist that carpets the valleys – and its colour changes from deep, cobalt blue to magenta-fringed to golden yellow.
Yes, you do need to get up early. You need to hike uphill in the darkness, and wait, shivering in the cold, for a while too. The rewards for doing so, though, are handsome.
The village of Rom Fah Thai (commonly referred to as Phu Chi Fah) is 95km (59 miles) east of Chiang Rai town, and sits around halfway along the Phi Pan Nam Range of mountains that loosely define the Thailand/Laos border. The summit of Phu Chi Fah is 1,442 metres (4,730 feet) high, and its distinctive cliff face can be seen from afar.
There are several other peaks along the same ridge line, some of which have paved access. Doi Pha Tang (see below) at the end of the ridge is the farthest flung.
Reaching the summit of Phu Chi Fah requires a gentle 750-metre climb on a dirt trail from the parking area to the summit. It takes about 20 minutes. You will need solid footwear; if it’s raining, the route is very slippery and should be avoided.
Take warm clothing, a flashlight, something to drink and a camera. There are several small snack stalls at the parking area, and you will also see a few hill tribe children singing traditional songs along the route. They might offer to guide you – they aren’t pushy and a tip is much appreciated.
Arrive early, as the best colours are seen in the 30 minutes before sunrise; the areas to your right (beneath the summit) are the best for photos. Hang around after sunrise and walk to the top to see the clouds clearing below.
The road from Phu Chi Fah to Pha Tang runs just beneath the ridge line, with panoramic views across farmland and the surrounding hills. It offers two more sunrise viewing spots; Phu Chi Dao and Phu Chi Duean. These are slightly higher than Phu Chi Fah and less frequented.
The ridge top views are just as good as they are from Phu Chi Fah – although I still prefer the latter unless it’s very busy, as the cliff adds to the drama when you stand beneath it.
If you’re only staying one night in the area, climb one peak the evening before – they have great sunsets, too – and then make a sunrise ascent on the second day. Have breakfast in either village, and then take a late morning hike up the third peak to give you the best of all worlds.
Getting there: The best option is to rent a car from Chiang Rai, as it allows you to visit more than just Phi Chi Fa and you can also drive to the trail head in the morning.
There are songthaew taxi vans running up and down the hill from the village to the start of the hike every morning, which you should arrange at your guest house on the evening before (10 minutes each way, around 30-40 baht/US$1-1.30 per person).
When to go: December to mid-February is the best time to catch the sunrise and cloud inversion (with a 70 to 80 per cent chance of a good show). It is still good to visit outside this period (apart from March to late April, when haze from crop burning and wildfires can be an issue), although catching a decent sunrise is far from assured.
Staying there: There are many small guest houses, resorts, camping options and restaurants in both Phu Chi Fah and Pha Tang, as well as along the ridge in between. Don’t bother booking in advance – it is best to show up and to look around, as few of the places have websites.
