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Malaysia
LifestyleTravel & Leisure

‘This year is about survival’: on Langkawi, Malaysian holiday island, tourism staff and businesses stretched by Covid-19

  • Malaysia’s border closure and domestic lockdowns to combat Covid-19 appear to have revived an ancient curse cast by a beauty who drove islanders wild
  • As tourism businesses and their staff face lean times, a businessman suggests it could be time for the ‘jewel of Kedah’ to develop medical tourism and education

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Langkawi’s tourism-dependent economy has been battered by waves of domestic coronavirus travel restrictions in Malaysia and the closure of the country’s borders. Photo: Thomas Bird
Thomas Bird

Langkawi’s sole historical site, surrounded by glistening rice paddies, is easily missed.

The Mahsuri Tomb is a relic of a 19th century tragedy, the final resting place of a beauty who – according to legend – drove the islanders wild with her good looks. She married a warrior but when he went to serve in a war, a jealous village chief had her framed as an adulterer. Mahsuri was executed and, with her dying breath, cursed the island for seven generations.

The curse appeared to ring true – Langkawi stagnated even as the Malaysian tiger roared through decades of impressive economic growth.
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Fortunes began to change when Mahathir Mohamad – a native of Kedah, the largely mainland state that Langkawi is part of – first came to power in the mid-1980s.
The Mahsuri Tomb is the final resting place of a beauty who, according to legend, cursed Langkawi for seven generations. Photo: Thomas Bird
The Mahsuri Tomb is the final resting place of a beauty who, according to legend, cursed Langkawi for seven generations. Photo: Thomas Bird
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Langkawi was made a duty-free zone in 1987 as an incentive to lure holidaymakers. It worked; by 2016, three and a half million people were visiting the island annually. In 2018, the government announced it was “targeting 9 billion ringgit (US$2.17 billion) in tourism revenue in Langkawi by 2020”, helped by a newly expanded international airport that could handle four million passengers per year.

But when Covid-19 swept through Southeast Asia at the beginning of the year dubbed “Visit Malaysia 2020”, a movement control order (MCO) was implemented nationwide. Public gatherings were prohibited, interstate travel banned and national borders closed to all but returning Malaysians and departing foreigners. The measures sucked the lifeblood out of Langkawi.
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