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How a drowned village in India reappears each summer, to be flooded by visitors and litter. A new tour could change that

  • Inhabitants of Kurdi in Goa, India, were relocated and their village inundated when the Salaulim Dam was built in 1986 to provide water for island residents
  • Villagers celebrate Kurdi’s reappearance each during the dry season. Now it draws outsiders who leave litter and damage buildings in their quest for selfies

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Kurdi in Goa, India, was submerged under a reservoir when a dam was built in 1986. The village reappears during the summer heat, and is a hotspot for selfie takers, who often leave litter and damage buildings. Photo: Arti Das
Arti Das

Houses in ruins, a washed-out temple, cracked earth surrounding puddles of water and a deafening silence welcome summer visitors to Kurdi in Goa, western India.

Submerged for most of the year, the remnants of the once thriving village, also known as Curdi, re-emerge from receding reservoir waters during the hot summer months to remind visitors of a bygone era.

In 1986, Kurdi was flooded by the reservoir of the then newly built Salaulim Dam. It had been a village of paddy fields, and plantations of coconut, jackfruit and mango trees, which flourished on the banks of a canal.

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It had a school and a chapel, as well as the ancestral home of classical vocalist Mogubai Kurdikar (1904-2001). Kurdi also had a 10th century Mahadev temple, which was dismantled by the Archaeological Survey of India and rebuilt in Shelpem, about 15km (9 miles) away.

Remains of houses in Kurdi that reappear when the waters of the reservoir that drowned it decades ago recede. Photo: Arti Das
Remains of houses in Kurdi that reappear when the waters of the reservoir that drowned it decades ago recede. Photo: Arti Das

Around 600 families – 3,000 villagers in total – were displaced to make way for the dam and reservoir, which provides water to the South Goa district.

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