Why there’s more to Palau than diving, from wood carving to ancient monoliths

While researching a trip to Palau, a tiny island nation on Micronesia’s western edge, you can find endless information about its famed mushroom-shaped Rock Islands and spectacular diving sites, including over 50 World War II wrecks. But what you discover when you get there is a destination eager to highlight something else: its rich culture on solid land. The remote archipelago’s efforts to encourage activities like village tours and traditional handicraft workshops appears to be helping tourism rebound from pandemic-era lows. Visitor numbers have surged from about 5,000 in 2021 to more than 50,000 in 2024, according to the country’s visitors authority. Chinese tourists lead the recovery despite recent diplomatic tensions. “We’ve been known for our crystal clear water, but there’s more to see,” says Sean Tekriu, who welcomes visitors to Palau’s Badrulchau Stone Monoliths, one of the many land-based attractions touted by tourism officials. “We want to showcase our culture, our heritage and our lifestyle.” Palau, a cluster of more than 300 islands, can be reached directly from several locations, including Brisbane, Australia; Guam; Hong Kong; Macau; the Philippines and Taiwan. It is best known for its underwater landscapes, with 1,500 fish species and 400 hard corals. Palauans are passionate about protecting these natural treasures and have designated 80 per cent of their waters as a protected sanctuary – one of the highest proportions of any country. Upon entry, visitors are required to sign the “Palau Pledge”, promising to safeguard the environment for future generations. Many tourists visit to dive the historic wrecks, remains of the Japanese naval stronghold in the Pacific. One of the most notable relics is Iro Maru, a massive, 470-foot (143-metre) supply ship that rests upright with schools of lionfish and clownfish darting through its corridors. Jellyfish Lake, where snorkellers snapped selfies with throngs of harmless jellyfish, now lies nearly empty because of rising ocean temperatures. However, snorkellers can still experience Palau’s marine beauty at sites like Ngemelis Wall, known as the Big Drop-Off. As you glide along the surface, you spot swarms of vibrant fish. Deep below, the silhouette of a nurse shark grew fainter as the coral cliff plunged 1,000 feet into darkness. One thing to beware of when in the water is the notoriously aggressive, yellow-and-black titan triggerfish, with a mouth full of tiny, razor-sharp teeth, that are apt to bite. At Tebang Woodcarving Shop, in Koror, artisans chronicle Palauan oral history through the carving of traditional wooden panels, or storyboards. Visitors can buy these works of art, which can be up to 6 metres (20ft) long, or take a class to learn how to craft their own. “We have a passion for sharing our stories,” says McMichael Mutok Jnr, who tries to preserve his country’s history through his work at the Palau Register of Historic Places. A common storyboard legend, he explains, is of the breadfruit tree, in which jealousy over a magical fish-sprouting tree led to it being submerged underwater along with an entire island. Dozens of storyboards are on display at the Etpison Museum, which also showcases Micronesian artefacts such as the giant stone currency from Yap, known as rai. The Etpison Museum and Belau National Museum feature a wealth of local history and customs, such as the “first childbirth” ceremony, a cleansing and healing ritual that celebrates first-time mothers. For a hands-on experience, check out Belau Eco Glass, a gallery and centre for upcycled art at the Koror State waste management facility. You can transform recycled trash into treasure at their glass-blowing workshops, or buy ready-made pieces like delicate vases and vivid jewellery. After browsing the collection, I left with a dainty pair of tangerine-coloured earrings. We also stopped by the bimonthly 680 Night Market, where performers join vendors and artisans for a lively mix of music, traditional dance, local cuisine, fresh produce, crafts and souvenirs under the Japan-Palau Friendship Bridge. As the sun was setting, I took in the ocean views from beneath the bridge, which connects Koror Island – Palau’s commercial and dive hub – with Babeldaob Island, home to natural landmarks and historical sites. On Babeldaob Island, intrepid travellers can visit Ngardmau, Micronesia’s tallest waterfall. It can be reached via a steep, muddy jungle trail where hikers choose between a daring river crossing, a challenge I left to braver souls, or a drier route along the water’s periphery. Trekkers are rewarded with a refreshing dip in the pools beneath the falls. History enthusiasts may want to explore the ruins of Kaigun Sho, a World War II Japanese communications centre. At Babeldaob’s uncrowded northern tip, you can walk through the remnants of a Japanese lighthouse; the panoramic Pacific views justify the trip, despite the structure’s minimal remains. Nearby are the historic and serene terraces of Badrulchau Stone Monoliths. The archaeological remains from AD150 include more than 34 columns believed to have once formed the foundation of a grand meeting house. I found myself captivated by the site’s mysterious origins, especially the local legends of a trickster god who fooled other gods into dropping stones across the country. Mutok Jnr hopes that sharing stories like these through heritage-based tourism will help elevate Palau’s profile to rival that of nearby Micronesian destination Pohnpei’s Nan Madol archaeological site or Easter Island’s moai human figures “For tourists to come and learn about our history and people, that’s what’s important to us,” he says. Nicole Evatt is vice-president, editorial content at communications firm Edelman and a former Associated Press journalist.

Why there’s more to Palau than diving, from wood carving to ancient monoliths

.css-1c6uqr6{color:inherit;font-weight:inherit;font-size:inherit;font-family:inherit;line-height:inherit;overflow-wrap:break-word;}The island nation and diving paradise is pushing its cultural heritage, with village tours and handicraft workshops

The island nation and diving paradise is pushing its cultural heritage, with village tours and handicraft workshops