Discover Amsterdam’s hidden gems away from the tourist crowds, from Nieuw-West to Bijlmer

Amsterdam is suffering from overtourism. Calculations suggest that 12 people visit per year for every local resident. Nevertheless, there are intriguing areas away from the main sightseeing spots that hardly any tourists stray into, and which often represent something far closer to the everyday lives of Amsterdammers. One easy tip to avoid the crowds is to set your alarm for 5am – preferably on a Sunday. This way, you can have Amsterdam’s canals all to yourself. The traffic is not yet roaring, the city is quiet and the gables of the houses are reflected in the canals’ undisturbed water. Those wanting to enjoy Amsterdam’s brick facades in peace without getting up early can head to Rivierenbuurt. The neighbourhood, near the Amsterdam RAI exhibition centre, features buildings in the Amsterdam School architectural style from the 1920s and ’30s. Anne Frank lived on Merwedeplein in Rivierenbuurt before she and her family were forced into hiding by the Nazis in 1942. Take a walk west from Rivierenbuurt to the 1928 Olympic Stadium and you will pass through the affluent Apollobuurt neighbourhood, where many expats – from well-heeled managers to IT experts – live. But where can you meet Amsterdammers who have to make ends meet without big salaries? Check out Nieuw-West, which is also a good place to stay as a tourist. The neighbourhood has many murals to discover, as well as Sloterplas lake with its beautiful marina. It can take time to reach some of Amsterdam’s famous attractions from the neighbourhood on foot, but you can reach anywhere in the city relatively quickly by bike. Hiring a bike to explore the city is a good idea – it is how many Amsterdam residents get around. Just adhere to the rules of the road. Cycling is particularly fun in Nieuw-West because the traffic is nowhere near as dense as in the city centre. Fruittuin van West is a farm in the west of the city. There, you will find an inner courtyard with organically grown fruit and vegetables, and a cafe. It does not get much more peaceful than this. Over in east Amsterdam, there beckons another world. The Bijlmermeer neighbourhood, or Bijlmer as it is often called, was once poor but has recently transformed. The neighbourhood was designed in the 1960s as a “city of the future”. Then as now, it is surrounded by greenery and consists mainly of high-rise apartment blocks. What is immediately noticeable is the tranquillity, as car traffic is routed around the neighbourhood. A raised railway line cuts through the neighbourhood. The ground area is reserved for pedestrians and cyclists. The neighbourhood’s history is brought to life at the Bijlmer Museum, founded by Henno Eggenkamp, who moved to the neighbourhood in 1969 as one of its first residents. “I experienced everything,” the now 79-year-old tells museum visitors. He never wanted to go anywhere else and the ethos behind the neighbourhood’s design still impresses him: social classes are largely eliminated thanks to the uniform architecture. “Everyone lives in a flat of the same size, and you can’t change it by painting the door differently or adding an extension,” Eggenkamp says. “There are no status symbols here.” Architect Siegfried Nassuth (1922-2005) planned the neighbourhood in such a way that simultaneously promotes privacy and fosters a sense of community, with meeting places such as playgrounds, sports facilities, seating areas and social centres. The Bijlmer, like many urban areas in large European cities, has gone through turbulent times. In the 1980s, wealthier residents moved out and the neighbourhood became blighted by crime and drugs. As migrants moved in, the neighbourhood became more international. The Amsterdam Arena – now the Johan Cruyff Arena – opened in the neighbourhood in 1996 as the home of Ajax football club. A new self-confidence emerged rooted in the multicultural character of the neighbourhood. Today, the Bijlmer is a natural paradise, just as its designer Nassuth had envisioned. His idea to eliminate car traffic was ahead of its time. High-rise buildings are being built again to create urgently needed living space. “Suddenly, the Bijlmer looks very modern,” Eggenkamp says with a smile.

Discover Amsterdam’s hidden gems away from the tourist crowds, from Nieuw-West to Bijlmer

.css-1c6uqr6{color:inherit;font-weight:inherit;font-size:inherit;font-family:inherit;line-height:inherit;overflow-wrap:break-word;}Skip Amsterdam’s crowded canals – or at least visit them earlier – and explore areas full of great art, architecture and green space

Skip Amsterdam’s crowded canals – or at least visit them earlier – and explore areas full of great art, architecture and green space