What to do in Osaka, Japan’s ‘culinary capital’, from Dotonbori’s chaos to the castle

Osaka can feel like a constant assault on the senses, an impression that is sometimes cemented after just a few hours of being in Japan’s third biggest city. The Shinsekai quarter – which served as the city’s entertainment district long ago – in the south of the city, for example, is filled with shops and restaurants covered in colourful neon, Japanese calligraphy, manga characters and comic book heroes. Ducking into specialist shop Tower Knives, which sells handcrafted knives with blades as hard as they are sharp, can feel like a reprieve from the mayhem. The store is named after the neighbourhood’s Tsutenkaku Tower. Bjorn Heiberg, the Canadian owner of Tower Knives, says that people from all over the world visit his store. The quality of Japanese knives is unrivalled – and when it comes to prepping food, every cut needs to be perfect. But more on that later. The original Tsutenkaku Tower, built in 1912, looked like a hybrid of Paris’ Arc de Triomphe and Eiffel Tower. After it sustained fire damage, a replacement was built in 1956. Since then, the eight-sided, 103-metre (338-foot) tall structure has been one of the area’s defining landmarks. On a clear day, Osaka Bay’s artificial islands can be seen from the tower’s observation deck. These are home to the city’s port facilities, a number of theme parks and, this year, Expo 2025 – this year’s World Expo event, which is taking place on Yumeshima Island. As in other Japanese cities, many of the area’s older buildings have been replaced by new, earthquake-proof constructions. This is also the case in Nipponbashi Denden Town, a district dedicated to shopping and entertainment and Osaka’s answer to Tokyo’s Akihabara neighbourhood. In Denden Town, rows of brightly flashing electronics stores alternate with shops selling manga and collectibles, and hundreds of vending machines sell items such as freshly squeezed juice, hot sauce and soft drinks. Above street level, the facades of the buildings are covered with larger-than-life images of robots and Japanese television stars. Osaka has a population of 2.8 million, while the metropolitan area – which includes the neighbouring cities of Kyoto and Kobe – has a population of around 19.3 million. This makes it one of the most populous urban regions in the world. Popularly known as the kitchen of Japan, Osaka is considered the nation’s culinary capital – the Michelin Guide Kyoto-Osaka currently lists 231 restaurants in the city, 79 of which have been awarded at least one star. The ultimate proof of the locals’ love for food is the Kuromon Ichiba Market where, along almost 600 metres of narrow alleyway, stores sell everything that Japanese cuisine is most known for: tempura, sushi, yakitori (grilled meat on skewers), and seafood that ranges from king crab to sea urchin. Then there is the takoyaki – these piping-hot batter balls, typically filled with a bite-size piece of octopus, are Osaka’s signature snack. In short: the market is a street food lover’s paradise. Adventurous eaters should head to Minami Fish Store, one of the stalls in the market. This unassuming corner stand specialises in a delicacy that is typically avoided outside Japan: fugu or pufferfish sashimi, which can result in food poisoning or even death if it is improperly prepared. Fugu is an example of how locally produced knives – like those sold at Tower Knives – that can make sharp, precise cuts come in handy. As chef Gaku Imagawa from the restaurant Utsubohonmachi Gaku explains, you need to be certified to prepare the fish. “Since this requirement, there have hardly been any incidents.” While Osaka can be rather intense, it is also tidy – you will not see much rubbish on the streets, nor many aggressive drivers – and it has a calmer side if you look for it. One of the more well-known havens away from the bustle is Osaka Castle, in the north-east of the city. The castle, surrounded by two moats, is one of Japan’s most famous landmarks. With its intricate green roof and immaculate white walls, the castle keeps alive the mysterious Japan of centuries past. There are no flashing neon signs or street food stands here – just prayer shrines and a sprawling park with cherry and plum trees. First built in 1583, the building has been the site of several conflicts over the centuries and has been repeatedly destroyed and rebuilt. The current version of the castle, reconstructed in 1931 with concrete, is now home to a museum. For nightlife, Dotonbori awaits. The district is known for its bars, restaurants, entertainment and large illuminated billboards, including one that is a giant crab with moving legs and another that depicts Spider-Man perched on a clam. Newer signs advertise Expo 2025, which is taking place now until September. The star of Dotonbori, however, is the Glico Man – a giant neon sign of a triumphant man running on a track. While the running man is the mascot for the Japanese multinational food processing company Glico, the sign primarily serves as a backdrop for selfies, which regularly results in pedestrian traffic jams along the Dotonbori Canal and the nearby Ebisu Bridge. Tour boats cruise leisurely along the canal, offering passengers a fresh perspective on the hustle and bustle that occurs at street level. Boats go past Ebisu Tower Ferris Wheel, the world’s first oval-shaped Ferris wheel, which stands about 77 metres tall.

What to do in Osaka, Japan’s ‘culinary capital’, from Dotonbori’s chaos to the castle

.css-1c6uqr6{color:inherit;font-weight:inherit;font-size:inherit;font-family:inherit;line-height:inherit;overflow-wrap:break-word;}With its neon-lit streets, culinary delights and historical landmarks, Osaka offers a sensory feast for visitors

With its neon-lit streets, culinary delights and historical landmarks, Osaka offers a sensory feast for visitors