Why people are moving to Portugal: food, weather, safety, work-life balance and more

“Why is everyone going to Portugal?” a friend asked when I told him I was going there for a visit. People travel for many reasons, but visiting friends and relatives is one of the largest and most resilient segments of the travel industry. Travellers spend over US$400 billion a year doing it. And it was the primary reason for my trip to Portugal: to reconnect with a couple of friends in Porto, Portugal’s second-largest city after Lisbon. While saying “everyone” is going to Portugal is a bit of an exaggeration, more than 21,000 Americans have moved there, either permanently or as temporary residents, in the last few years. They are the largest group of transplants, followed by the Chinese. Fifteen per cent of Portugal’s 10.6 million residents are from outside the country. I had visited Lisbon once, in the 1980s, staying at what is now the Lapa Palace Hotel, then owned by the Orient-Express Hotels group, when it was affordable. Compared to the rest of Europe, Lisbon seemed like it had been left behind in a time warp, with its streets and pavements paved with tiny bits of stone, and its vintage elétricos – the city’s ancient tram lines made from wood and polished brass, as well known as San Francisco’s trams – weaving through narrow streets. So there I was again in Portugal, and I was glad to see that not much had changed, other than the influx of Americans and others. Statistics help explain some of Portugal’s appeal. The Global Peace Index, an annual survey of crime and violence data compiled by the Australia-based Institute for Economics & Peace, ranks Portugal at No 7 in terms of how low its levels are, just below Singapore. The day I arrived in Porto, a big football match was in town, and it was the last day of national elections – 10 political parties are in the national assembly, and citizens can vote online. I have no idea which team or candidate won. The city was quiet. There were no demonstrations or postgame riots like you would find in Paris or Philadelphia or Los Angeles or Washington. There were no roving gangs of disgruntled voters rampaging through the streets or mindless teenagers sacking retail stores just for fun. There was no sense that things were about to fall apart. Then there is the slower pace, and better work-life balance. English is widely spoken, in part thanks to the long presence, starting in the 16th century, of the English in the production of port wine. The cost of living in Portugal is 36 per cent less than in the US, according to a 2024 survey. On a day when I had some free time, I took a walking tour with Bliss Tours, led by Porto native Duarte Vieira. I recommend it – and him. When I got back home, I texted him to ask what he likes best about his country. “The weather, the food, but mostly the safe life,” he said. Again, the safety thing. Maybe all those expats are moving to Portugal for some peace and quiet. The thing he liked least? “The low salaries.” Which helps to explain that 36 per cent lower cost of living. There is a lot to see and do in Portugal. For tourists, there are 17 Unesco World Heritage – more per acre than in the UK or France. One of them is the historic centre of Guimaraes, a town a few miles north of Porto. I took a walking tour there. It was a feast for the eyes. There were red-tiled roofs, streets and pavements paved with tiles known as calçada portuguesa, or Portuguese pavement, made from small pieces of white and black limestone, sometimes of basalt and granite. There were narrow winding streets lined with tile-clad houses spanning in age from medieval times to the 19th century, with those cute little trams dating from the 1930s rattling and squealing past. I visited some churches and cathedrals, of which Portugal has many. Braga Cathedral was started in the 12th century in a mishmash of styles – Romanesque, Baroque, Gothic and others. I was surprised to see so few visitors inside. My guide said that a recent admission charge – all of US$2.30 – was the reason, but I think it is just that relatively few people visit Braga compared to other cities in Europe with architectural jewels like this. And that is the other thing about Portugal, especially the north where I stayed: it is not over-touristed compared to much of Europe these days. That said, the very things that make Portugal so attractive to outsiders are making living there more difficult for the Portuguese. The influx of tourists and people seeking residency is driving up housing costs and changing the nature of neighbourhoods, in Lisbon especially, as flats are turned into short-term Airbnb rentals. Porto is well known for port wine, although it is made in the surrounding countryside, with its hills covered in vines, offering many opportunities for tastings. I visited Quinta da Roeda, a vineyard owned by Croft Port, founded in 1588, in the Douro Valley, where I took a cruise on the Douro River with Deltatur, a local tour provider offering 16 options starting at US$35. Nearby, I took a cooking class at Quinta da Pacheca, a country hotel set amid extensive vineyards. Also in Porto, I strolled through the Matosinhos Municipal Market, where dozens of vendors sold everything the sea had to offer. The surrounding restaurants, such as Bistro by Vila Foz where I dined, were happy to prepare my “catch” to order. I caught some jumbo shrimp, freshly caught, not farmed, and huge. On my last night in Porto, I checked into the Rosa Et Al, a six-suite townhouse hotel where the rooms were decorated with modern and vintage furniture, and the daily brunch was a local favourite. It was also a deli and restaurant; I had never stayed anywhere quite like it. It was a bargain at about US$140 per night. The next morning, I packed and crossed the garden to the hotel’s living room, where breakfast was supposed to be served, but even at 9am no one was stirring, so I left. I was going to take the train to the airport – US$3 – but a car to the airport cost just US$16. The line at border control was long but moved quickly, and the agent wished me a pleasant journey with a smile.

Why people are moving to Portugal: food, weather, safety, work-life balance and more

.css-1c6uqr6{color:inherit;font-weight:inherit;font-size:inherit;font-family:inherit;line-height:inherit;overflow-wrap:break-word;}Portugal’s safety, low cost of living, rich culture and quality of life are attracting tens of thousands, particularly Americans and Chinese

Portugal’s safety, low cost of living, rich culture and quality of life are attracting tens of thousands, particularly Americans and Chinese