Reclusive Turkmenistan is opening up. Is the ‘world’s weirdest country’ worth the trip?

From a gas crater dubbed the “Gateway to Hell” to the shimmering marble buildings of its capital, Turkmenistan is tentatively opening up to tourists after decades of isolation. One of the world’s most reclusive countries, the former Soviet republic adopted strict visa requirements after gaining independence in 1991, and closely monitors visitors. While this policy remains largely in place, tour agencies in the Central Asian nation have noticed a recent decrease in visa rejections and this year authorities announced plans to expand the tourism sector. A Western tour group taking advantage of this tentative thaw is spotted at the archaeological ruins of Nisa, an ancient fortress near the capital, Ashgabat. “I wanted to see what the mystery was about,” says Nick Frey, a 28-year-old US tourist admiring the fortress. Turkmenistan declared itself “permanently neutral” under its post-independence leader Saparmurat Niyazov, a policy that he used to justify extreme constraints on contact with the outside world. For 15 years, the former Communist official shaped the capital in his image, ordering it to be rebuilt as a marble citadel complete with a towering gold statue of himself. Since Niyazov’s death in 2006, successive presidents – Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedov and his son Serdar – have kept the system in place, along with the cults of personality and grand architecture. Ashgabat has the highest density of white marble buildings in the world, according to Guinness World Records. Turkmenistan’s odd architecture and reclusiveness have made it a magnet for content creators on social media, some of whom have dubbed it the “world’s weirdest country”. ‘It was the first time in my life I saw white traffic lights’ “The first thing I noticed was the whiteness of everything,” says Liza Zorn, a German tourist who visited Ashgabat. “It was the first time in my life I saw white traffic lights.” Among the sights she came to see was the “Gateway to Hell”, a gas crater that has been burning for more than half a century and is one of the more internationally known tourist spots in the desert-covered country. Before arriving, all holidaymakers must prove their tourist credentials and their itinerary is strictly mapped out. “You have to have your plans organised by a tour agency like ours and everything has to be approved,” says Effie Frank, a supervisor at the Saiga Tours. In recent years her agency has not been refused any letters of invitation, essential for obtaining a visa. “It does seem like it’s getting a bit easier to come to Turkmenistan,” she says. After visiting Nisa, the 20 or so tourists with her group returned to Ashgabat for Carpet Day – a national holiday honouring Turkmen rug artisans – before visiting yurts and tasting local produce. Carpets are one of the three most important national symbols, along with the Akhal-Teke horse and Alabai dog. President Serdar Berdimuhamedov, who runs the country in tandem with his father, appears to be warming to the new visitors. “The country’s tourism industry is increasingly expanding,” he said earlier this year, adding that he wanted to develop international cooperation. The industry is still in its infancy. “Firstly, there needs to be political will. Secondly, a simplified visa policy. And thirdly, well-developed infrastructure,” a Western diplomat in Ashgabat says on condition of anonymity. These three elements are not yet fully in place. While luxury hotels are springing up in Ashgabat and Avaza, the main seaside resort on the Caspian Sea, the rest of the country is poorly equipped for visitors. Turkmenistan still relies almost exclusively on gas revenue to power its economy. The country – which closed its state tourism authority during the Covid pandemic – does not regularly publish data on the number of arrivals. But Azat, an employee at a local travel firm, is enthusiastic. “Tourists visiting this country could, with multiple-entry visas, continue their tour along the Great Silk Road,” he says. He also proposes collaborating with Uzbekistan, as there are many archaeological sites close to the border that are inaccessible to foreigners. “We are ready to welcome large numbers of tourists from neighbouring countries,” he says. A law passed last year to introduce electronic visas is yet to be implemented.

Reclusive Turkmenistan is opening up. Is the ‘world’s weirdest country’ worth the trip?

.css-1c6uqr6{color:inherit;font-weight:inherit;font-size:inherit;font-family:inherit;line-height:inherit;overflow-wrap:break-word;}After decades of isolation, Turkmenistan is easing visa barriers and courting visitors to Ashgabat, the ruins of Nisa and the Darvaza crater

After decades of isolation, Turkmenistan is easing visa barriers and courting visitors to Ashgabat, the ruins of Nisa and the Darvaza crater