Take a hike through Spain's Picos de Europa
The Picos de Europa aren't well known, but Spain's limestone mountains will pique your interest, writesAlf Alderson
Turning off the Cantabrian Highway along Spain's verdant north coast and heading inland to the Desfiladero de la Hermida, you soon encounter an ever-narrowing chasm where the cold, clear waters of the Rio Deva bounce between thickly vegetated rock walls.
Even on the sunniest of days, an air of gloom hangs over the dank, vertiginous road as it winds its way up towards the Picos de Europa. It's a far cry from the open skies and landscapes of the coast, and it's easy to understand why medieval travellers were reluctant to venture into the mountains when Stygian routes such as this were the only gateway to the high peaks.
Eventually, the road snakes out of the gloomy gorge and opens up onto bright pastures, above which tower the grey-white crags and pinnacles of the Picos de Europa.
It's a little surprising after the almost Lost World feel of the narrow Deva valley to eventually drive into the bustling town of Potes; blue skies and vibrant street life encourage me to pull over and enjoy a coffee and a spot of people watching before continuing onwards and upwards, until my car could go no further.
I've arrived at the hamlet of Fuente De, which lies in a large meadow that is, quite literally, at the end of the road and comprises little more than a large parador alongside the only cable car in the Picos de Europa. This combination of comfortable accommodation at the foot of the peaks and easy access into them makes it an ideal base from which to explore.