Compared to the gabled 17th century canal houses that surround it on either side of the Prinsengracht canal, the solid 1970s brick exterior of the Andaz hotel in Amsterdam is, frankly, disappointing.
Step inside, however, through an ornately stuccoed low-ceilinged corridor lined with Alice in Wonderland-style small black doors, and it's a different story. Your first sight is a series of giant white and gold bell lights hanging over three circular tables (around which you can check in) and an airy glass atrium filled with illuminated hoops and globes of light that represent stars and constellations.
The surreal decor continues upstairs. Every room is adorned with a mural of a fish stitched on to one of 12 objects such as a champagne glass, a fork or a spoon; and there's a pair of yellow and red wooden clogs hanging on the wall facing the bed (painted to look like two people screaming and meant as a reminder to get out and explore the city).
Not being the greatest fan of Dutch designer Marcel Wanders' oversized, child-like tables and chairs for Moooi, I was sceptical about an all-Wanders hotel. But the bedrooms have character and playfulness while remaining restful, functional and, mostly, stylish.
The 117 guest rooms and five suites are well finished and airy; they are open plan and have a small walk-in closet. The spacious glass-front shower cubicle doubles as a full-length mirror; the high-backed, tulip-shaped yellow reading chairs are cosy but refined; and the Villeroy & Boch basins are hand-painted with one of Wanders' one-minute designs in Delft Blue. The wallpaper in the toilet depicts tales of the city's history and folklore.
I eat at the hotel's restaurant, the Bluespoon, with its open kitchen. Diners can see the chefs chop, stir and sauté and hear them chat. The food is so-called Western seaboard cuisine, but the meal I have - crispy iceberg lettuce and radicchio with a poached egg, black truffle and honey mustard dressing; roasted brill on the bone with clams, carrots, capers butter and lemon; apple and blueberry crumble with vanilla ice cream - is a mixed bag.
The produce is fresh and seasonal, the combinations inventive and unpretentious, but I found the starter unbalanced (too much salad) and the dessert stodgy.