Wine tasting: Chateau d'Issan Margaux - elegant, good value, highly drinkable
As Chinese interest in Bordeaux wines cools and prices drop, there is an opportunity to rediscover what France's top winemaking region has to offer.
In the past 10 years, Bordeaux wines have captured headline news with their meteoritic rise in prices and Chinese buyers' insatiable demand for them. But more recently, their fortunes have seen a reversal with a slide in prices and popularity. For wine lovers this is an opportunity to rediscover Bordeaux.
One hidden gem, and often overlooked, is Chateau d'Issan located in Margaux. The chateau has a long and colourful history. In 1152 its wine was served at the marriage between Eleanor d'Aquitaine and Henry II, King of England. Fast forward to the 19th century, and the château was classified as a third growth under the 1855 classification. It boasts illustrious neighbours including the highly regarded third-growth Chateau Palmer, and the premier cru Chateau Margaux.
The property has gone through its highs and lows. Under the stewardship of Emmanuel Cruse since 1998, the quality of the wines has risen to its former glory. Out of 120 hectares on the property, about 53 hectares are under vine.
In terms of style, the current owner says, "I aim to make elegant wines, not monsters." The wines remain true to their origin. They are pure and elegant with refined tannins, and are highly drinkable. Best of all, prices are still reasonable and deliver quality for value.
The chateau has had an overhaul in both the vineyard and cellar. Vineyards have been re-drained and vines have been replanted on improved rootstocks. Investment in the cellar includes the purchase of sorting tables, stainless steel tanks and barrels.
