Food & drink

Restaurant review: Ebi-no-Hige serves up fantastic sashimi

Causeway Bay restaurant lives up to the hype, with very little to dislike.

PUBLISHED : Thursday, 18 June, 2015, 10:12am
UPDATED : Friday, 19 June, 2015, 10:06am

The menu at Ebi-no-Hige spends almost as much telling us about the concept, the place, the tableware and ingredients as it does listing dishes. Thankfully, with all that build-up, we weren't disappointed with the meal.

The three set dinners — HK$580, HK$680 and HK$780 — seemed a reasonable deal as they gave a taste of the different styles of cooking. We went with the largest menu.

The appetisers were excellent — good quality sushi (Japanese sea urchin and lean bluefin tuna), a delicate steamed egg custard with prawns, and excellent salmon roe with grated radish. This was followed by a very light prawn dumpling in a subtle, clear broth.

The sashimi course was fantastic: Japanese amberjack, medium-fatty bluefin, sea bream and northern prawn, all served on crushed ice on a beautiful plate. Moist, perfectly cooked salt-grilled rosy sea bass was another highlight of the meal.

We also liked the stone-grilled A5 wagyu rib eye roast — small, well-marbled two-bite pieces of meat that we seared briefly on hot stones, and which needed only a bit of the rough-flaked salt for flavour (it also came with ground pepper and fresh wasabi, as well as bamboo shoot and asparagus).

We didn't like the tempura — two prawns, eggplant, shishito and kabocha — the batter was too hard and oily. The simmered thornyhead rockfish was too heavy and coarse; my guest said it tasted like it had been created by another chef, because it lacked subtlety. We were really too full to appreciate the sakura prawn with Niigata Koshihikari rice served in a traditional copper pot, but the pickles that accompanied it cleared our palates, and the miso soup was excellent.

The menu is changed every three months.

Ebi-no-Hige, 12/F OLIV, 15 Sharp Street East, Causeway Bay, tel: 2155 4186. Price depends on the menu.