Six ways to escape the crowds and see the real Chiang Mai
It's a city of trees, colour, and markets - and a place that encourages introspection. Finding places away from the crowds will help you get so much more from your time there
There is a sense of romance, of intrigue, that comes with a trip to Chiang Mai. Thailand's unofficial second city is in the far north of the country, surrounded by the mountain ranges of the Thai highlands, and it is much celebrated as the cultural capital of the country. Here, in the city that was once the capital of the Lanna Kingdom, there are more than 300 Buddhist temples. It's a city of trees. A city of colour. A city of markets. It's also a place that naturally encourages introspection, and finding places away from the crowds will help you get so much more from your time there.
Talk with monks at the Silver Temple
Just south of Chiang Mai's old town is the city's silversmith district. The streets are packed with stores selling everything from silver earrings to bracelets to photo frames. Down one of the side streets is a temple called Wat Srisuphan (Moo 2, Tambon Nong Kaeo, Amphoe Hang Dong). It's rarely visited by tourists, which is strange, as it's both exquisite and unusual: the entire temple is made of silver. Inside the complex you can see the metal being battered into intricate plates, as the tradition of silver working is passed on to the next generation. The temple offers "monk chats" every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 5pm, where visitors can speak with monks and learn more about Buddhism.
"Give back" while you receive a massage
Foolish is the traveller who visits Thailand without having a traditional Thai massage. Why? Thai massage is a healing process that incorporates stretching, energy meridian work and specific pressure points to relieve stiff and sore muscles, boost circulation and reduce stress. There are so many places offering massages you'll never be short of choice, but if you want to give something back, you should visit the Chiang Mai Women's Correctional Institution Vocational Training Centre. (100 Rajvithi Road, Chiang Mai old town) Here, massages are given by women who are nearing the end of their prison sentences. They have been meticulously trained and all the money they earn is saved and given to them when they leave prison. They leave with a skill and experience, and a fund to help set them up a new life. The centre also has a small restaurant and shop, where food and souvenirs are made and sold by prisoners.
Open Monday to Friday, 8am-4.30pm; Saturday and Sunday, 9am-4.30pm