One of the bar’s signature dishes is Chicken 65, a dish of fried chicken that reportedly hails from Chennai. Lee says that the dish’s curious name can be attributed to a number of legends, such as: “the chicken is cut into 65 small pieces, the chicken is 65-days old, and it is the 65th item on a vast menu of a famous restaurant in India.”

It’s a heavily spiced dish, incorporating Kashmiri chilli powder, turmeric, ground coriander, ginger and chilli flakes, so Jablonka suggests pairing it with a Kabinett Riesling 2011 by St Urbans-Hof, describing it as, “an elegant, crisp and fruity riesling with a hint of natural residual sweetness complimenting the spiciness of the chicken”.

Not forgetting its Spanish roots, jamon is an essential item on Tapas Bar’s menu — it serves Serrano aged up to 20 months, and Iberico bellota aged to 24, 36, 48 and even 60 months. Lee insists that the slicing be precise and consistent, saying, “The enjoyment of ham is very much affected by how it is sliced”, and that “a smooth cut, even distribution of fat and meat, good marbling and very thin slices” are essential.

Tapas Bar, Kowloon Shangri-La, 64 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui East, tel: 2733 8756. Open: 3.30pm-1am (from noon on Saturday and Sunday)