Newly opened Porterhouse by Laris - a sleek look, a super steak

We weren't sure it was a wise decision to take a two-year-old to the latest addition to the new California Tower in Lan Kwai Fong. Although it's not an overly formal venue, we didn't want him to ruin the meals of other diners with his sporadic shouting and cutlery clanging. But as soon as he started on the warm, crusty baguette, we knew we were in the clear.

This establishment by chef-restaurateur David Laris and the Eclipse Hospitality Group "pays homage to the golden age of the steakhouse", but it's more than that. In addition to the impressive meat locker displaying the beef selections, there's also a seafood bar, backed by a view of the kitchen. The design of the airy restaurant is modern and sleek, complete with full-length windows and a mirrored geometric ceiling.

The king crab and avocado stack with lemongrass gazpacho (HK$198) was a refreshing starter, which we much preferred to the watery heirloom tomato salad with its somewhat bland tomato essence jelly, toasted walnuts and aged sherry vinaigrette (HK$138).

The seared scallops with corn purée (HK$168) was a delight, with two plump and juicy shellfish on a bed of creamy corn.