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Wine: tastings from top Margaret River winery Xanadu

The region accounts for 5 per cent of Australian wine production but 20 per cent of its premium output. Xanadu consistently produces high-quality wines

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The Margaret River, which irrigates the region's vineyards. Photo: Liana Cafolla
Sarah Wong

Matt Kramer fromWine Spectator lists the Margaret River as one of the most overlooked wine regions. He enthuses: "The top rank of Margaret River chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon is, simply put, in the top rank in the world. And by that I'm including the likes of Burgundy [for the chardonnay] and Bordeaux and Napa Valley [for cabernet sauvignon]."

Margaret River is located in southwestern Australia, about three hours' drive from Perth. It is a relatively young wine region, with vines first planted by the winery Vasse Felix in 1967. The region has a maritime climate similar to that of Bordeaux. In terms of volume, Margaret River produces only about 5 per cent of the total of Australia's production. However, it overcompensates in quality as it represents more than 20 per cent of Australia's premium wine market. The most popular grape varieties are cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, semillon, shiraz, merlot and verdelho.

The region is home to about 190 wineries. One name producing consistently good quality wine is Xanadu Winery. Xanadu evokes romantic images of Marco Polo and the emperor Kublai Khan. The winery is an homage to English poet Samuel Taylor Coleridge's famous poem, Kubla Khan. Coleridge was inspired to write the poem after an opium-influenced dream. In the poem he describes Xanadu, the summer palace of the Mongol emperor Kublai Khan.

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