Ninety per cent of output from Rioja in northeastern Spain, one of the country's most famous wine regions, is red wine. Thus, white Rioja remains a niche product - but its importance should not be overlooked.
The main component of the white Rioja is viura, also known as macabeo. British wine critic Jancis Robinson calls viura "the Cinderella grape", as it is "hardly ever written about and of which the authorities in the region … seem rather ashamed", but which has potential for great beauty.
In 2009, regulatory authorities allowed verdejo, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay to be used for white Rioja and banned new plantings of viura. In an industry that requires more diversity, the move may restrict customers' choices in the future. As Rioja transitions from the old to the new, it is a good time to try the range of wines that this region has to offer.
In terms of style, there is a wide variety of winemaking methods. Traditional white wines receive extensive barrel ageing before being released. These tend to be nuttier, with some oxidative notes. These varieties are an acquired taste especially for consumers who are looking for fresh, vibrant, fruit-forward styles.
Modern white Rioja is fermented at cool temperatures to preserve primary fruit flavours. Oxygen contact is minimal and ageing the wine in French oak is favoured.
"To talk about our bodega of white wines being exclusively young and uncomplicated would be asking for trouble," says this 130-year-old winery.