Classic Hong Kong restaurants: Pak Lee Café, Sai Wan Ho

At first glance, Hon Man-por wouldn't strike you as a good conversationalist. His eyes constantly dart and when he sits, it's like he's preparing to pounce. "It's an occupational disease you get when you run a bing sutt [Hong Kong-style cafe]," he says. "You have to be on constant alert to make sure all your customers are happy."

Hon, known to most as Por Gor ("big brother Por"), has been in the bing sutt business since he was 13, starting out as a delivery boy. He now runs Pak Lee in Shau Kei Wan, the cafe his father founded 50 years ago, and its new branch in Sheung Wan.

"Bing sutts are like cha chaan teng, but with less food. People come in for an iced drink to cool down in the summer," says Hon, referring to bing sutt's literal translation as "ice room".

Hon's father, an egg wholesaler, opened Pak Lee in 1963. A post second world war immigrant from the mainland, the elder Hon came to Hong Kong with his siblings in search of a better life. Hard work became the family credo, and they never took a day off or closed shop during public holidays.

In his 20s, Hon Man-por left home and made a name by speculating in real estate. "I wanted to show my father that I could be a better businessman," he says.

The Asian financial crisis of 1997 changed that, and he soon found himself back at his father's cafe.