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Shiraz Randeria

"WE LANDED IN HANOI at exactly midnight. It is the country's second city, with a colonial old world charm and felt quite low-key and quiet," says Shiraz Randeria. "After exploring the city, visiting Ho Chi Minh's mausoleum, eating crickets and drinking our fill of the local draft beer, bia hoi, we decided on the spot to try a three-day motorcycle tour.
It's possible to ride through Vietnam independently using the famous Ho Chi Minh Trail from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City. For some, it's an Asian rite of passage, which, done fully, would take you two weeks to complete.
We had not planned anything because we had not considered a tour until we saw the leaflet in our hotel. We'd never ridden motorbikes before. We didn't even have driving licences with us. So we went for a knowledgeable English-speaking guide (and motorcycle instructor) plus a driver and a back-up Toyota 4x4 - and the shortest tour available.
Early on the first morning, we were driven out of the city and in the outskirts we were given a basic lesson: how to go faster, stop and change gears, plus a few basic Vietnamese words.
The rest of the day was spent slowly making our way up into the mountains, along winding back roads and bamboo-lined paths towards the town of Mai Châu, in Hòa Bình province, which lies around 150 kilometres southwest of Hanoi, close to the Laos border. This province is home to two ethnic groups - the White Thai and Black Thai. We passed rice paddies, small communities and wide rivers - one of the benefits of travelling by motorcycle is that you feel much closer to your surroundings than being stuck in a car. And it is easier to make detours, or take time out to admire the scenery. We'd stop with our guides at street food cafes for snacks and pho (dog was politely turned down).
Just before dusk, we arrived at Mai Châu and our first home stay. We slept soundly in a spare room on simple mattresses, and woke up with the cockerels to catch a majestic sunrise over the mountains. On the second day we rode through Cam Thuy and Thanh Hóa province, took a boat trip on a lake and went on a cave tour.
We returned to Hanoi, this time on faster, less scenic roads, stopping to visit historic temples on the way. This trip was an exhilarating way to learn how to ride a motorbike, and to do it through the northern Vietnamese countryside was perfect.
48hours@scmp.com
 
WHAT TO PACK 
	Warm clothes: Hanoi is in the north of Vietnam and much cooler than you'd expect during winter. Bring sweaters and a hat.
Gloves:  once you're in the mountains outside Hanoi, you'll need them to keep your hands warm. We bought ours on the road when the numbing cold became unbearable. They were my most important purchase.
A strong stomach:  deep-fried crickets are delicious, and easy to eat, but several restaurants were offering less-appealing dishes, including swan, bull's penis and dog. Each evening's home-cooked meals were delicious.
Confidence: the best way to learn something new is to just do it. Within a few hours we were quite happy careering through rural Vietnam on motorbikes with either automatic or manual gearboxes. That said, I occasionally had trouble using the brakes.
Camera: the hills and valleys are spectacular, even on misty winter days. Stop whenever you like to take pictures. An investment in a helmet-mounted GoPro camera might be worthwhile.
 
GETTING THERE 
	Vietnam Airlines and Dragonair fly to Hanoi. The flight takes just over an houtr.
There are plenty of options for short tours starting in Hanoi. Log on to vietnamoffroad.com or motorbiketourexpert.com Meet your guide beforehand to check them out and pick an itinerary that best suits you. Our route took us through Hòa Bình and Thanh Hóa provinces, southwest of Hanoi.
 
STAYING THERE
	Both nights were spent in farmhouses, enjoying the company of the extended families living there. Dinners were multi-dish meals, with plenty of snake wine and banter, sitting on the floor in rooms lit by a dim light bulb and candles. The men, about 10 of us, sat on one side of the room, while the women and children sat on the other.
 


Two wheels good: a tour of Vietnam

Water buffalo and a patriotic mural are just some of the sights on Shiraz Randeria’s road trip.

Water buffalo and a patriotic mural are just some of the sights on Shiraz Randeria's road trip.

"We'd never ridden motorcycles before. We didn't even have driving licences with us. So we went for a knowledgeable English-speaking guide, motorcycle instructor, plus a driver and a back-up vehicle - and the shortest duration, three days."

Magazines

48 Hours

In pursuit of adventure, Shiraz Randeria sets off on a motorcycle tour of northern Vietnam's hill country


In pursuit of adventure, Shiraz Randeria sets off on a motorcycle tour of northern Vietnam's hill country.


Two wheels good: a tour of Vietnam

.css-1c6uqr6{color:inherit;font-weight:inherit;font-size:inherit;font-family:inherit;line-height:inherit;overflow-wrap:break-word;}In pursuit of adventure, Shiraz Randeria sets off on a motorcycle tour of northern Vietnam's hill country

In pursuit of adventure, Shiraz Randeria sets off on a motorcycle tour of northern Vietnam's hill country